Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980

R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point. R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher. R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:

• Not everywhere is there good protection,
• There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up. From the chip off to the left Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4 The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.

• Climbing category: technical
• Climbing area: Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
• Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak "TRUD", 4650 m, via the right part of the Western wall, first ascent.
• Estimated route category: 5B
• Route characteristics: height difference — 1180 m, average steepness — 55°, total route length — 1560 m, section lengths:
  • 3rd difficulty category — 415 m
  • 4th difficulty category — 580 m
  • 5th difficulty category — 540 m
  • 6th difficulty category — 25 m
• Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
2. Pk. Baychechekhey, 4515 m, route via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall
3. 5A cat. dif.
4. Rock
5. Route height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1430 m. Section lengths:

• V cat. dif. — 135 m.
• VI cat. dif. — 6 m.

The rocks in the chimney are loose in places. There are ledges for belaying. The chimney leads to the summit ridge. The further path along the ridge to the summit is not difficult. The summit is a small "candlestick". Descent is via the ascent route. The route takes 6–8 hours, including:

• 6–7 hours — difficult rock climbing on the upper part of the wall, with a 500 m drop below. This produces a very strong psychological impact. 12 pitons are hammered in along the entire route. Despite the fact that the route is quite short, it is considered one of the very difficult routes of cat. grade 3B.

Report on the ascent of the Tomsk-Novosibirsk team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North wall couloir, 5B cat. sl., Barber's route, March 25, 2019.

1. Mountain system: Tian-Shan. Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Valley: Ak-Sai. Name of the summit: p. Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m.
2. Name of the route: via the North wall couloir, №147.
3. Category of complexity: 5B.
4. Nature of the route: ice and snow.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 900 m. Length of sections with V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m. Average steepness:

2014 Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude technical class Report on the ascent of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing team to Kyzyl-Asker peak (5842 m) via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace," first ascent, approximately 6B category. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A. Moscow 2014

Kyzyl-Asker via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace"

Ascent Details

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent region: Tian Shan, Western Kok-Shaal-Too

Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian Shan, western Kokshaal-Too
3. Peak Chernogolovka via the center of the S wall (4825 m)
4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1425 m. Distance — 2000 m. Distance of category 5 sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 50°
6. Pitons hammered: rock 11, chocks 7, ice screws 4
7. Climbing hours 14 and 1 day.
8. Overnight stays: none.

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Ascent route — to the summit of Big Chimgan via the north-eastern wall. Summit elevation — 3207 m above sea level.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 2000 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • complex section length — 700 m.
5. Pitons hammered in:
   • rock — 35

The ascent leader and author of the description is Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from the Molodezhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the Mramorny lake side. From the lake, a trail leads towards the pass, which ends at a talus slope. The ascent is via the scree, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodezhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail follows the ridge towards Molodezhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodezhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

16 to Uchyitel peak:

The route starts from Molodezhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the peak on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.

1B to Molodezhny peak