Report

on traversing 1st, 2nd Western — Eastern peaks of Trezubets 2B category of the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Samofeeva, CMS.
	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Bondarenko A.Yu., Plotnikov I.I., Simonov P.A., Strizhko A.S., no rank.
	Full Name of coach	Popov V.I.
	2. Characteristics of the climbing object

Route Description

Ascent to Kichkinekol Pass via the "Zamok from Burevestnik Pass" route. Descend from the pass down simple snowy slopes onto the Zamok glacier plateau. Cross the glacier leftwards, ascending along the flat section in separate steps towards the base of the Eastern peak's buttress, visible throughout the approach. From here, to the right of the icefall, follow a faintly defined snowy ridge (rocks on the right!) to reach the upper plateau below the eastern ridge of the peak. From Kichkinekol Pass - 2 hours 30 minutes. Ascend the ridge from the plateau to a snowy col, then continue up the slabs to the Eastern peak (overhanging cornices on the right!). From the Eastern peak, follow the snowy ridge rightwards to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Descend the wall with a chimney for 25 m, reach an inclined snowy ledge, and follow it rightwards onto the ridge. Descend a steep ridge to a col. From the Eastern peak - 3 hours. Along the col's ridge, approach a gendarme composed of large blocks (proceeding head-on). From the gap behind the gendarme, ascend the right side of a 15-meter wall (avoiding the corner - loose rocks!), then follow the ridge and a series of short, steep chimneys to reach the Western peak. From the col - 1 hour 30 minutes. Descend from the Western peak along the ridge to a col with a rocky "finger", then move to the southern side of the ridge. Traverse the peak from the south, reach a bifurcating ridge, and descend along its right branch onto the Zamok glacier plateau; then ascend to Kichkinekol Pass. From the Western peak - 3 hours.

• The traverse is possible in the opposite direction;
• When descending from the peaks, check the snow condition on the slabs!

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m

Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.

210. The Big Tsey horseshoe (Adai — Ulargee — Zaromag) (a combined route by K. Korolev, 5B cat. of difficulty). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (a group of 4–8 people) to the Adai summit is described in route 166. From the Adai summit, descend down the ice-and-snow SW ridge to the first group of rocks, which are bypassed on the right. Then, 40 m down the steep ice-and-snow slope on the right side of the ridge. Then traverse down to the right along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the snow SW ridge. Along the snow ridge with rocky sections of medium difficulty in the lower part, approach the steep rocky ridge. Along the steep, heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty rocky ridge descend to a long, gentle ice-and-snow SW ridge, along which approach the rocky "saw". From under the "saw", descend from the ridge 40–50 m to the left and along the ledges, simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the ridge, bypass the "saw" by traversing. Behind it, ascend to the platform of the snow col between the SW ridge of Adai summit and the gendarme "ZIL" of the E ridge of Zaromag summit. From Adai summit — 6–8 hours. From the col, along the wide (80–100 m), steep ridge, approach under the wall of the "ZIL" gendarme. Along the rocks of above medium difficulty on the right side of the wall — ascent to the ridge and along it — exit to the "ZIL" gendarme. The further path to Zaromag summit along the E ridge is described in route 178. From Zaromag, descend along the simple, short, gentle rocky, then snow 200-meter W ridge. Further:

• Descend to the left along the narrow, steep ice-and-snow 300–400-meter couloir, bypassing the rocky drop of the ridge.
• From the couloir, traverse to the right along the snow-covered rocky slopes to exit to the ridge connector.
• From the connector, along the boundary of ice and rocks, bypass two small gendarmes on the left and behind them exit to the col of the snow ridge.

Ascent passport.

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Kionsky massif, section in KMGV 2.7.
3. Barzond-Tsagveri West (3337 m) — Central (3350 m) traverse.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 700 m. Length about 2 km. Average steepness on the route is about 30°.
6. Hammered in hooks: rock 2/0, закладок 4/0, ice 0/0, bolted 0/0. Left on the route rock — 0; закладок — 0.
7. Team's walking hours — 8, days — 1.

20. Bubis – Songuti, traverse

(combined route, cat. 4B) Ascent to Bubis summit from Tsey–Tbiliski pass via Tbilisa-Mta saddle or by the route of cat. 2B. Descent from Bubis summit to Karaugom pass by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Tsey–Karaugom pass, traverse Double Peak summit (cat. 3B) and the ridge between North Double Peak and Krasnoarmeyets peak via the несложному гребню (easy ridge) of Krasnoarmeyets peak. Descent from Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2A and further ascent to Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Krasnoarmeyets peak via an easy rocky ridge to Uilpata-tau peak. From Uilpata-tau peak, descend to Vorobyevsky pass by the route of cat. 4A. From Vorobyevsky pass, ascend to Songuti by the normal route of cat. 4A. Descent from Songuti summit by the ascent route to "Volginskaya nochovka" (by the normal route of cat. 4A).

21. BUBIS — CHANCHAKHI, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B)

Ascent to the summit of Bubis via the normal route (cat. 2B) from the Tsey-Raug pass. Descent from the summit of Bubis along the southeastern snowy ridge to the saddle below the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Ascent up a new slope (40–45°) to the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Descent from the summit of Tbiliza-Mta initially along a gentle (30°) snowy ridge, then down an ice and firn slope (120 m, 70°, piton belay!) to the ridge before a large "gendarme". Bypass the large "gendarme" from the left (in the direction of travel) from the north along a steep (60°) firn slope, followed by an ascent (50 m) onto the ridge. Bypass all encountered "gendarmes" from the right (in the direction of travel) and along a heavily damaged rocky ridge to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass. From the pass, ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi via the normal route (cat. 4B). Descent from the summit of Chanchakhi to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass via the normal route (cat. 4B). When traversing the summit of Chanchakhi in full, the category of the Bubis—Chanchakhi traverse is 5A (approximate).

V. Bubis — Chanchakhi, traverse, 4B cat. dif.

CHANCHAKHI PASS TSEY-CHANCHAHI PASS TSEY — "LILA" Tbilisi BUBIS SOUTHEAST RIDGE EAST SHOULDER DOME Bol. Zh.

35. Nikolaeva — Mamisontraverse

(Combined route, category 4A) From the hut, descend to the glacier. Approach the second ular. Ascend to the left side of the rocky cape under peak Nikolaeva. Bypass the rock wall on the left. Reach the balcony of the ice axe site. Then, from the right side of the balcony, traverse left along simple rocks with a slight descent in the middle part, then left, descending to a wide shelf. Traverse 100 m to the left along the shelf and reach a large site. From the site, ascend left and upwards along simple rocks to the summit of peak Nikolaeva. From the summit of peak Nikolaeva, descend 100–150 m along simple rocks to the side, then traverse down to the saddle of the ridge between peak A and Mamisontraverse. Continue along the simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, to the distinct ridge of Mamisontraverse. From Mamisontraverse: — along the 50-meter East (snowy) ridge, then approach the snowy ridge. — Approach the I-st Big gendarme and bypass it with a descent on the right. — Then ascend the steep gendarme. From the gendarme: — Descend to the snowy isthmus and along the gendarmes to the East shoulder of Mamisontraverse.

From the col, descend three rock "steps" of a жандарм on the right, and the fourth one — on the left, to reach the snowy ridge, along which ascend to Dolomit Tsentral'nyy. From the Malyy peak — 3 hours. The further traverse follows route М86.

• Departure time from the bivouac — not later than 4 am;
• On the traverse section, it is practically possible to organize an overnight stay at any col;
• The route is completed within one daylight day.

М92. Dolomit Severnyy — Yuzhnyy via the western wall ascent

(route is rock, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severnyy is made