Route Description:

From the ice bivouacs, via the Middle Kichkinekol glacier plateau, approach the slopes of Talychat pass. To the left of the pass, the western slopes of Talychat peak begin. In the middle of the western slope, a large couloir descends — this is the route landmark. Ascend via the right snow-scree side of the lower part of the couloir to a rocky outcrop. Then:

• through rocks, up and to the right via a small snowy couloir;
• then left via fine scree to reach a large inclined ledge. Along it:
• up for 20 m, bypassing the walls on the right;
• after 50 m, reach a grassy ledge. Along the ledge, head left to a stream, bypassing wet slabs, then ascend rocks to large slabs. Across them, left onto a large scree.

6. V. Zaromag via North Counterfort and East Ridge, cat. 4B

EAST RIDGE ZIL PASS SADDLE BIG G. I P. II P. III P. IV P. WEST RIDGE VCSPS SHOULDER FRESHFIELD PASS

¹

1. False summit
2. Main summit
3. "Black gendarme"
4. Shelf
5. II ridge connector
6. I ridge connector
7. Overhanging rock in couloir

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12

V. Chanchakhi via the Southeast Buttress and South Ridge. Cat. 4B

South Ridge Southeast Buttress Tsey-Chanchakhi Pass East Ridge Upper cirque of the North branch of Tsey Glacier Tsey-Tbilissky Pass

Kivish pass

3rd pass — 1st

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Leader V. Vasilenko +3, 1978 From the base camp located at the 58th km of the Khorog - Osh highway, we approach the Gaf Glacier along the left (orographically) side of the Nemacdar River. We ascend to the Gaf Pass via its left part. The approach time is 5–6 hours from the base camp. The entire approach path is clearly visible from the 59th km of the Khorog - Osh highway. General view of the peak 5204 m from the East. — route along the S ridge from Gaf Pass (leader V. Vasilenko) — route along the E face (leader I. Orbei) — route along the center of the E face (leader Kh. Kornys). Peak Gif Beginning of the S ridge

Map of the area worked by the 4C 6CO, A6a (3) 3 group, with the designation of ascent routes in 1978, June 28 — August 10. Base camp "Fann Mountains"

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;