Ascent passport

1. Ascent class - rock
2. Ascent area - Igizaki, Gissar ridge
3. Peak - Bivachnaya (northern) - 3800 m, via the Western wall through the cave.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5A
5. Route characteristics: Elevation difference - 600 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. - 240 m, average steepness of the wall part - 75–80°
6. Equipment used: rock pitons for belay - 61 pcs., for artificial climbing holds (ACH) - 16 pcs., chocks for belay - 26 pcs., for ACH - 11 pcs., bolt pitons for belay - 2 pcs., for ACH - 3 pcs.
7. Total hours of climbing: approach from "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac - 1 h, ascent to the summit - 18 h, descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac - 1 h 30 min.
8. Possible overnight camping sites:

Open Championship of Sverdlovsk Region on Alpinism

Report on the ascent to the peak Bivachnaya 3700 m via "diagonals" of the Western wall, approximately 5B cat. diff., made by the team of Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik"

Team leader and coach Igolkin V.I. 1987 Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Burevestnik" Address: 454080, Chelyabinsk, Lenina ave., 78 Chairman of the Regional Council - Deyneko Sergey Ivanovich, work tel. 39–91–01 (transformed into the sector of student sports of the Regional DLSO of Trade Unions) Team leader and coach Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich

Report

On the ascent of the group

From the Alpinism club of Magnitogorsk to the summit of Bivachnaya Gissarskaya 3700 m via the "crevice" of the Western wall

Magnitogorsk

2012

Leader of the first ascent in 1979: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin. Leader and coach of the ascent in 1987: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin Leader and coach of the ascent in 2012 with the goal of restoring the route: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin 455000 Magnitogorsk, Lenin Ave. 37, apt. 23, e-mail: a­va­re.i­vi@gmail.com, tel. (3519) 20-82-17, 8 909 093-65-21

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky ridge (section 5.2)

φ5 Section R2–R3 Photo 6. Section R2–R3 Photo 7. Belay station at the start of R4–R5. A belay anchor will be placed here. Photo 8. At the arch. Photo 10. Key 2. Overhanging ruined chimney. Photo 12. Start of section R9–R10

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — rock.
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Hissar Range, upper reaches of the Igizak River.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya, 3950 m, via the right part of the Western wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 310 m, average steepness — 60°, total length of sections — 350 m: 2nd cat. difficulty — 120 m, 3rd cat. difficulty — 170 m, 4th cat. difficulty — 60 m.
6. Number of rock pitons for belaying — 16, number of chocks for creating artificial support — 5.
7. Number of travel hours — 7.
8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
   1. Arakcheev P. P. — leader, 1st sports category.

Climbing category — technical Climbing area — Gissar Range, Igizak area Peak, its height, route — p. Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya, 3500 m, 3350 m via West wall. Proposed cat. dif. — 3A, first ascent. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average slope — 60°. Pitons: rock 25. Number of walking hours — 8 h. Number of nights and their characteristics — none. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:

1. Lavruhin V. — leader, Master of Sports of the USSR
2. Ben Reid — expert, USA
3. Carlos Bukler — expert, USA Team coach: Efimov S. — Master of Sports of the USSR Date of departure and return — August 16, 1978

Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya

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52. The Twins from the South, category III, route 26, fig. 27.

The ascent to the summit is done from the Panorama Peak cirque. The approach from the mouth of the Siama River along the Panorama Peak River takes 5 hours. It is possible to start the ascent from the lake below the Varzobskaja pila Peak. In this case, it is necessary to:

• Cross a grassy spur into the Panorama Peak valley
• Reach the foot of the Twins under the slopes of the Krylja Tadzhikistana Peaks. The ascent to the summit is via grassy slopes and scree with individual rock outcrops. In places, fine scree lies on slabs, requiring special care. Snow is present at the beginning of summer. The traverse from the Main summit to the Northeast summit is done through the gap between them. Descend from the Main summit down the rocks for 20–30 m to a ledge, from which a fixed rope leads to the col. The rope can be left in place and used upon return. Cross the sharp ridge of the col to beneath the Northeast summit. First, follow the scree ledge to the right of the ridge, then traverse the slab and easy rocks of the ridge to reach the summit. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours. Fig. 27

Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "TADJIKISTAN"

Alpinist camp "VARZOB". DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "BLIZNETSY" VIA THE NORTHEAST COUNTERFORCE (PAMIR-ALAI, REGION OF THE "VARZOB" ALPLAGER). Dushanbe – 1968

Introduction

To continue exploring the mountain region near the "VARZOB" alpinist camp, and to further the sporting growth of alpinist-discharge holders and instructors, the "VARZOB" alpinist camp organized an ascent to the summit "BLIZNETSY". By participating in ascents to neighboring peaks: "VARZOBSKAYA PILA", "KRYL'YA TADJIKISTANA", instructors from Dushanbe had long been eyeing the northern slopes of "Bliznetsy" — steeply falling walls 1.5–2 km long — in the gorge of the "MAYKHURA" river. It was probably then that the idea of traversing the northeast counterforce of the "BLIZNETSY" peak was born. The peak was named "BLIZNETSY" back in the early days of alpinism in Tajikistan (1952–1953). When viewed from the south, all three elevations of the peak have absolutely identical outlines, while from the north these outlines are lost.

Geographical and Alpinist Characteristics of the Region

The massif that includes the "BLIZNETSY" peak occupies an intermediate position between "TIA-N'SHAN'" and "PAMIR" and is known as "PAMIRO-ALAI".

The ascent class is rock. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit, its height, and the ascent route — Eastern, Varzobskaya Pila peak 3600 m via the southeast wall. Estimated category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 250 m
• Average steepness — 65°
• Length of sections: 1 — m; 2 — m; 3 — 60 m; 4 — 200 m; 5 — 50 m; 6 — m Pitons driven:
• For belaying — 56
• For creating rock I.T.O. — 53
• Ice — ------