REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Большой Игизак via the left edge of the north-eastern wall along the route 4А cat. diff. (first ascent).

August 23, 1979 Yu. Krasnoukhov, V. Gusev, 15. Kudrisov. 10 ✓, 34 m, 3.8 h. 240 m, 1951, 201.

Photo 2. Route profile.

• VISIBLE PART OF THE ROUTE
• INVISIBLE PART OF THE ROUTE
• Δ К.Т. — Control Tour

Scheme of the ascent area.

• GROUP'S ROUTE.
• BASE CAMP.

Table of main route characteristics.

Brief description of the approach to the route.

From the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, follow along the Игизак river via grassy slopes and medium talus, after 20–30 minutes cross the stream and ascend via a snow-filled cirque under the northern slopes of the Малый Игизак summit, then to the right under the N-E wall of the Большой Игизак summit.

The approach takes 1.5–2 hours.

Brief explanation of the table.

Section R0–R1. The route begins from a ledge under an overhanging wall to the right of the base of a large snow couloir (at the beginning of summer, the wall may be covered with snow). The wall is circumvented to the right via rocks and leads to a shelf above it. From the shelf, via a crack, there is an exit under a small cornice. It is circumvented to the right via a horizontal fissure. Then upwards via smooth rocks to slabs under the second cornice.

Section R1–R2. From the slabs, via a wide crack to the right onto a shelf and further upwards to a narrow inclined shelf that leads to the left onto a flake in its middle part. Upwards via the flake to a shelf.

Section R2–R3. Directly above the shelf, the left wall of the ridge overhangs. Via the wall:

• left-upwards,
• then to the right,
• further via a slab, we exit onto the ridge crest.

Along the crest, adhering to the left crack, to a wall. There is a small ledge in front of the wall.

Section R3–R4. The wall is climbed via a fissure to the left, then via a slab to the right-upwards, exit under an overhanging wall with a wide fissure. Via the fissure, using étriers and placed protection, we exit onto a small shoulder. Control Tour.

Section R4–R5. From the tour to the left via a wide shelf, which transitions into a wall. The wall leads to a wide shelf.

Section R5–R6. From the shelf to the right, crossing the ridge, we exit onto a narrow long shelf. Via it, we approach a wall composed of large blocks.

Section R6–R7. Via the wall, we exit into an internal corner and then via a series of shelves and walls, we exit onto the summit.

On all sections, except for section R5–R6, the protection is provided by pitons.

The time taken to complete the route from the base of the ridge to the summit is 8 hours.

Descent via route 1Б cat. diff. k/tr to the west.