North face of Bolshoy Igizak (via the cleft)
Category 3B difficulty
The route along the wall passes through a clearly visible cleft that crosses the wall diagonally towards the saddle.
Section 1. The path initially passes through easy rocks upwards, emerging onto an inclined ledge that crosses the wall upwards from right to left.
Section 2. Along the ledge, we move left and upwards to the start of a slab (weakly pronounced) that ascends the wall towards the summit. The movement is simultaneous. The section is 15 m long, and the ledge is 0.5–1 m wide.
Section 3. We ascend via a not clearly visible groove approximately 5–6 m upwards to narrow inclined shelves that traverse the wall horizontally. We traverse to the right along the shelves (6–7 m) and reach the base of the cleft that ascends the wall towards the saddle. Steepness is 70–80°. Protection is via pitons. Rocks are of medium difficulty.
Section 4. Upwards through the cleft (approximately 40 m) to where it ends at a wall at the base of a large, sharp rock outcropping. Here, there is a ledge suitable for organizing protection. The overall steepness of this section is 75°. When moving up the cleft, three main sheer walls, each 2–3 m high, are overcome. Handholds are available. Rocks are moderately difficult. Protection is via pitons (3 pitons).
Section 5. From the cleft, we exit to the right onto a ledge, and from it, we begin ascending a wall with smooth rocks along a ridge (a sheer wall drops off to the right). The ridge leads to the base of a deep, narrow chimney. Protection is organized in the chimney via a piton. The section is 10–12 m long. Rocks are moderately difficult.
Section 6. Overcoming the chimney. The chimney is narrow, sheer, with smooth walls, narrowing towards the top and covered by a plug. The overall height of the chimney is 5 m. The chimney is climbed using body friction since its width does not allow for using wedging with hands and feet. The most challenging climb is in its upper, very narrow part with smooth, sheer walls (the width of the chimney at the top is 20–30 cm) and exiting from under the plug to the right (along the route) onto a sharp rock ridge. Protection is via pitons (3 pitons).
Section 7. Along a ledge, we ascend to the base of a groove. The ledge is inclined, 30–40 cm wide, and 5 m long. It is overcome without much difficulty. Further, we ascend via a steep groove (70°) upwards under a wall (overhang). The groove is 8 m long. Protection is via pitons.
Section 8. The path upwards through the steep groove is obstructed by two sheer walls (sheer sections of the groove, 2–3 m high). They are overcome with difficulty due to the challenge in organizing protection. It is recommended to use ice screws here since there are no cracks in the rocks; only narrow (1–2 cm) slots filled with dirt are present. The first wall is climbed head-on; the second is climbed to the right along an inclined cleft, through which we exit onto steep rocks. The section is 20 m long.
Section 9. Through steep rocks with good handholds, we emerge into a widening groove with a suitable protection area, where a control cairn is built (on a ledge to the right of the groove). The section is 10 m long. Rocks are of medium difficulty. Protection is via pitons.
Section 10. Through a cleft, we ascend upwards, initially through несложным скалам. Further, the steepness of the cleft increases, and we begin climbing "on wedges" with an exit into a chimney with plugs. The section is 30 m long. Protection is via pitons.
Section 11. A narrow, deep cleft, covered by a plug at the top, is climbed like a chimney, using wedging; from the chimney, we exit to the left side under the next plug (a jamming of several large and smaller stones). Climbing is challenging. Along the left wall of the chimney, we emerge onto a plug under a second overhanging stone. The second overhanging stone is passed to the right along the route, pulling up on a stone jammed in the chimney, with an exit under a third overhanging stone (plug). It is bypassed along a shelf to the left along the route. Further, through not steep and несложным скалам, we emerge onto the saddle. Overcoming 3 overhanging stones in the chimney is the most challenging part of the route. Protection is via pitons; the section is 10–15 m long. On the saddle, slightly below it, is a second control cairn.
Section 12. Along the ridge, to the left along the route, through simple rocks, moving simultaneously, we emerge onto the summit. The section is approximately 100 m long. The descent from the summit follows the Category 1B route. A total of 12 pitons were used on the route. The overall steepness of the traversed section is approximately 70°. The first ascent was made in October 1963 by a group consisting of: Tkachov V. Pekarsky V. Konyushenko V. Tairov R. Equipment is standard for ascents; 60 m ropes are recommended.
Compiled by: Tkachov V.
