N1 and N2 are route points passed by the group

ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS, MI: 2500

Route diagram in symbols.

Section R3–R4

Passage of the R1–R2 section. Denis Prokofyev. R1–R2. Approach to the section R2–R3 Taken from the stance on the R2–R3 section. The photo shows the beginning of the R2–R3 section.

Sалават via the North Ridge, cat. 2A

When ascending from the "1860" fork along the Kergely River valley, distant peaks (Kergely and Koptau) initially come into view, and at an altitude of 2000 m, closer to the Koptjailyau valley, the powerful slabs of the northern face of Salavat's eastern ridge and its entire typically "table-like" massif become visible, with the spur of Peak I. Roshchin being the closest to "1860". After crossing the river and traversing along the left (hereinafter - orographic) bank of the Kergely River, the ascent route becomes visible from the right; initially, it is a very wide, arcuate couloir narrowing upwards to the right. The "3000" pass is visible above it, and to the left is the profile of the north ridge with the "Treугольник" (Triangle) gendarme. The summit is hidden behind the junction of the north and east ridges. On the left, in the lower part of the eastern ridge, a couloir descends directly towards the observer, leading to the right of the "Zub" (Tooth) gendarme onto a connecting ridge, from which a Shk/sl (Difficult climb) route is possible (we explored it but did not complete it due to several reasons). If one ascends further along the Kergely River, from the "2320" lake, the relatively even south ridge of Salavat and the "3300" pass will become visible (from right to left), from which the north ridge of Peak Pioner (cat. 2A), classified in 1962, begins. We traversed this ridge for reconnaissance. It turned out that the aforementioned even south ridge was overloaded with cornices; hence, we chose the north ridge for the ascent.

Technical description

Do not approach the northern wall of the eastern ridge in the couloir: rockfall is possible early in the morning (avalanches in spring). The arcuate couloir, approximately 2000 m long, with slopes up to 40° (scree, snowfields, outcrops of destroyed rocks), leads to the "3300" pass or to its left. The summit is still not visible from here.

The ascent from the "Mazar" base camp to the assault camp, located under the shoulder of the West ridge on a large clearing, takes 3 hours. Departure from the camp at 7:00 in the morning. Move up the talus along the gorge to the ridge shoulder. It takes 2 hours to reach the shoulder from the camp. From the shoulder, ascend along the ridge, keeping to the left side of the large talus up to the pre-summit mandara "Zub". Then:

• ascend along the talus — landmark: ruined rocks;
• descend along vertical perils to a snowy isthmus;
• from the isthmus — to the summit along a snowy slope (15–20°).

89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

Rocky island east of the initial central one

Northern ex­co­nus