1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Mt. Mayskaya, 3500 m, via the cleft in the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 200 m. b) length of sections — 4A cat. diff. — 50 m; 3 cat. diff. — 120 m; 2 cat. diff. — 55 m; 5A cat. diff. — 25 m. c) average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: a) rock pitons — 16

6. Medvezhy Zamok from the Big Siama glacier, 2A category of difficulty, fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend Siama along the moraines, then turn right and bypass Medvezhy Zamok peak from the west. The further path leads to the ridge connecting Shlem and Medvezhy Zamok peaks. Before reaching the saddle, turn right and ascend rocks, where occasional belays are required, to a snow patch below the north ridge of the summit. Ascend the rocks to the ridge. Follow an easy ridge to the summit. On the way from the North summit to the South summit, it is necessary to overcome two walls 7-10 m high. Piton belays are used. The further path to the summit is along easy rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7 hours.

7. Medvezhiy Zamok from Zamok Pass, category 3A route, fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend northwards via scree and grassy slopes to Zamok Pass. From the pass, move left towards the south-eastern ridge of the summit. The ascent begins along this ridge on moderately difficult rocks. Protection is alternating. Overcome two short rock walls. Bypass the gendarme on the right via slabs. The subsequent internal corner, with a steepness of up to 60° and 15 m long, is climbed left of the ridge, then along the ridge. Bypass the second gendarme on the left via ledges. Protection is via pitons. The bypass is 20–25 m long. Then ascend a 4-meter rock wall to reach a broad ridge platform. Traverse subsequent grey slabs on the right via a crack between them. Further, ascend via scree and easy rocks to the Southern summit. The descent from the summit to the north is via the Northern summit — category 2A (route 6). The ascent takes 9 h. Ledges with large rocks Gateway Ledge (60°) Black veins: 3rd 2nd 1st B. Siamy Glacier

Ascent to Peak "Medikov"

3A — complexity category via the northern ridge

Peak "Medikov" is located in the Ivan-Kaldy ridge in the Sanghi-Navishta area. Its height is 3650 m. It has three peaks; the ascent to the central, highest one via the northern ridge is categorized as 3A complexity. The approach to the peak is along the Gusharinka River. After driving about 1.5 km past Gushari, near two walnut trees standing alone on the left side of the road (in the direction of travel), the ascent to the pass leading to this area begins. The ascent along the trail takes about 1 hour, followed by a descent into the river valley. On the left side (in the direction of travel) of the river, after 3-4 hours of walking, it is convenient to set up an overnight stay. Firewood is available. From the overnight stay, continuing upstream along the river, after 30-40 minutes, we approach the fork of the gorges; the left one leads to the Sanghi-Navishta area towards the peaks of this area. By following this gorge, we emerge onto a wide plateau-glacier. Even from the approaches, before the last significant ascent, Peak "Medikov" is visible on the left (in the direction of travel) resembling a trident. On the plateau: to the right is the Dvukh Pass, straight ahead is the Okno Pass, and to the left is the Yuzhny Pass, which we reach by going along the peak. On Peak Yuzhny (3320 m), there is a note. The total time for the approach from the road is 7 hours. NOTE: The exit to Peak Yuzhny is possible directly from the pass without descending into the Gusharinka River valley, via the ridge. This path is shorter but more challenging.

R1

24. South peak of Naysagby from the east, category III, route 16, fig. 11 (Frusin K., Galatenko V., Popereka M. — 1954)

The ascent to the summit is made from a bivouac located in the upper reaches of the Pugus River, where there are good glades. It is better to approach the bivouac from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort via the road through the Ruidasht plateau and the Takhob pass. You can stop at the bivouac right after the pass or move further up the trail along the stream towards the South Naysagba peak. The approach takes 2–3 hours. Fig. 11. The ascent route goes along the eastern ridge, which in its lower part turns to the southeast, thus closing the cirque of the peak from the east, formed by the southern ridge and the said ascent route along the ridge to the summit from the east. From the bivouac, move towards the summit along the stream via grassy slopes or the stream bed (snow in spring). In the lower part of the ridge, there is a rocky belt. The exit to the ridge is on the right side via ledges and gutters of the rocky belt. Then follow simple rocks along the ridge. Move further along the ridge to the summit (snow at the beginning of summer, cornices to the north!). Individual rock outcrops are bypassed or overcome with belay. Descent from the summit is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

64. Nauka from the North (or South), Category 2B Climbing Route, Fig. 34

This description is for traversing the Nauka peak from south to north. Fig. 34. From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque. Ascend from the glacier to the southern saddle of the peak. The ascent to the saddle goes up a snowy slope, with a bergschrund at its lower part. On the saddle, there is a sharp gendarme; pass it on the left. From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks. Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m). From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform. From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder. Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit. Next:

• From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks.
• Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m).
• From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform.
• From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder.
• Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.

Description of the Traverse of "Nauka" Peak (36 kg)

Cat. difficulty: 3A "Nauka" Peak (3800 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Sangalyt River tributaries. From the base camp, located on the medial moraine of the Avicenna Glacier, the group ascends to the glacier plateau and approaches the "Pyati" Pass. The "Pyati" Pass is situated in the ridge between the peaks:

• "Kruglaya"
• "Kharkov" The ascent to the pass follows a steep snowy slope, 70–80 m long. By the end of summer, the slope may be intersected by a bergschrund. The descent from the pass goes down a gentle, fine scree slope, followed by an exit onto the northern glacier descending from the "Piramid" peaks. Crossing the glacier, the group arrives under the col between "Nauka" Peak and its southern ridge. On the col, a gendarme resembling a sharp finger is clearly visible. The ascent to the col is done on crampons up a snow-ice slope with a 45° incline. The exit onto the col is rocky, to the left of the gendarme. The further ascent to the summit from the col follows difficult rock climbing. The group traverses the following sections:

Peak NEVEZUCHAYA from the East

2A – complexity category Peak NEVEZUCHAЯA is located near Tajikskiye Igizaki. The approaches are similar to those for p. SHIROKAYA. Night stay

• in the gorge of the M. Igizak river
• at the mountain pasture at the exit from it. Ascent to the base of the rocks along the grassy slopes of the eastern ridge. Along easy rocks, directly along the ridge or slightly to the left of it, we approach the rocky belt, 20 m. The belt is traversed on the right along the continuation of the ridge via a chimney-cleft (20 m) with an exit to a good platform. Further, the path also follows the ridge along easy rocks, leading to the 1st summit. Descending from it to the saddle along easy rocks, we reach the 2nd summit. The summits are of equal height, around 3700 m.

Moscow Regional Council

of the Voluntary Sports Society "TRUD"

Description

Ascent to the summit of Odessa via the Odessa pass Category III complexity MOSCOW 1963 Mt. Odessa Map of the Siama region

Peak October from SE

2A — difficulty cat. Peak October is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit is 4100 m. It is the most beautiful summit in the area, having a pyramid shape and dropping off with sheer walls towards the Maihura River. Approaches and overnight stops are similar to those for the Shirokaya and Nevezuchaya peaks. The ascent to the summit begins from a col on its SE ridge at a height of 3500 m. The ascent to the col, clearly visible from below, goes along a steep scree, местами cemented, and grassy slopes. From the col, we approach the rocks and, bypassing them on the right along a ledge (about 30 m) above the sheer walls towards Maihura, we come to the beginning of a small couloir dropping off with walls. Crossing the couloir from left to right upwards, we come to its upper part, representing a chimney with a plug at the top. Having ascended the chimney to the plug (3–4 m), we go to the right onto the ridge and along it — to the summit. The rocks are easy, passed partly simultaneously, partly with occasional belays on выступы, friable. Descent from the summit: continuing the traverse along the western ridge (about 10–15 m), we descend to a narrow friable ledge and along it about 30–40 m to the beginning of a cleft turning into a couloir, along which we descend to the start of the ascent. Further — descent to the valley along any couloir. The first ascent was made on November 7, 1962. Time taken from overnight stop to overnight stop at the mouth of r. T. Igizak is 12 hours.