56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

First Ascent of Hazor-Mech Peak via the Northeast Face, Category 3A Difficulty

MOSCOW — 1963 Hazor-Mech peak (View from the Shadon River valley) Map of the Fann Mountains area

Description of the Climbing Area

In the western part of the Zeravshan Range, between the Dan-Darya and Kshut-Darya river basins, lies a relatively isolated massif known as the Fann Mountains. The peaks of this mountain node reach heights of 5500 m (Chimtarga — 5487 m, Big Ganiza — 5415 m, Dukdon — 5208 m, Zengia — 5105 m, etc.) — a total of up to 10 peaks exceeding 5000 m. The Fann Mountains are situated between the Zeravshan and Gissar Ranges. Significant glaciation in this area is primarily found on the northern slopes. South of Big Ganiza peak, in the upper reaches of the Iskander-Darya River, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the large and very beautiful Lake Iskander-Kul, which is a dammed lake. This area remains understudied, and many peaks await their first ascents.