№ 539 and 34 dated 24.04.84 Order number

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Korona Sang-Hoka, 4250 m, from the west via the saddle.
4. Difficulty category — 3A (first ascenders suggested 4A)
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 700 m. Average steepness — 45°
6. Protection devices used:

№ 539 № 33 0524.04.84 BAC p/v ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Range 3. Summit, height, ascent route — Korona Sang-Hoka, 4250 m, via the north-eastern wall. 4. Complexity category — 5A 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 700 m. Average steepness — 65°. Length of complex sections — 360 m.

Brief Description

Ascent route to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B From the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Hodja-Sang-Hok valley, on a grassy clearing under the slopes of p. 40 let Komsomola Tadzhikistana (40 Years of Komsomol of Tajikistan Peak) and per. Sang-Hok, first ascend via grassy and then snowy slopes to below per. Sang-Hok. Without reaching the pass, turn right and ascend the snowy slope leading to the ridge, then along the ridge to the right for 40–50 meters on easy rocks — exit onto a snowy plateau. From the plateau, via simple rocks at 35–40°, reach the ridge visible from the base camp as a "fence". Move along the ridge towards the summit. Bypass obstacle rocks and cornices on the left. After descending into a small depression, bypass a rock pinnacle on the right by descending on snow to a snowy shoulder. Having bypassed the pinnacle, ascend to the ridge via an inner corner for 40 meters at 45°. Then, for 60 meters, move along the inner corner of the ridge to the "Rog" pinnacle. From the "Rog" pinnacle, descend into a small depression and ascend to the summit via a snowy slope, bypassing the ridge on the left on snow. The descent from the summit is to the south along the ridge, then via simple rocks for 40–50 meters into a wide snowy couloir, which leads to a snowy plateau. An alternative descent is possible via the ascent route. The entire route is visible from the base camp and is logical. Recommended for camping and sports groups. A. Koshkin + 3 people, July 5, 1983, 300 m, 40°, 6 rock rings, 1 artificial aid, 8.5 hours.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Route

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B

up 539 n.24 of 24.04.84 2B km/h 5.2.3 Sanghok ASCENT REPORT. I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, elevation, ascent route — Nosorog, 4100 m, via the northern ridge 4. Difficulty category — 2B (proposed by first ascensionists as 3A) 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 300 m. Average slope — 40° 6. Pitons for belays: Rock — 6, Bolted — , Nut — 1

Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

up 539 n 30 dated 24.04.84 4 A n/l cu ASCENT REPORT. 1. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Sanghok, Gissar Ridge. 3. Peak — p. 4100, proposed name by first ascensionists p. Treugolny (Triangular). 4. Ascent route — via the western edge. S ridge Proposed difficulty category — 4A. 5. Height difference — 350 m, average slope 45–50°. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 30 m. 6. Number of protection pitons — 20 rock pitons.

66. Avitsenna from the Southeast, Category 1B route, Fig. 36

From the bivouac on the upper moraine of the Avitsenna Glacier, ascend to the upper plateau of the cirque across firn fields. Several snowfields rise towards the summit on the right, transitioning into couloirs and talus slopes in their upper parts. Ascend via the second snowfield, and in its upper part, transition to easy rocks interspersed with large talus sections. Maintain a general ascent direction towards a snowy shoulder to the left of the summit. Fig. 36. From the shoulder, move rightward along the easy rocks of the ridge to a wide chimney with large jammed stones. Ascend to the summit via the left wall of the chimney and easy rocks. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

Ascent to the summit of Avicenna Peak

via NW ridge - 26 km journey The ascent to the summit starts from a bivouac located on the upper moraine of the Avicenna Glacier under Seraia Peak. Cross the Avicenna Glacier and head towards the snowy couloir descending from a gap in the NW ridge of Avicenna. The gap is located far to the right of the summit. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund, above which the couloir narrows and reaches a steepness of 40–45°. When ascending, stick to the right side of the couloir. From the gap, follow the left side of the ridge, initially traversing icy slabs - 6–7 m, then snow, staying close to the rocks. The snowy slope is steep - 40–45°, requiring protection through outcrops and pitons. Overcoming this 150 m section, reach a chimney 15 m high formed by the ridge rocks and a large standalone rock. After the chimney, a short rocky section with alternate protection leads to a small flat area. Continue with alternate protection along moderately difficult rocks, traversing the ridge on the left side. Then, follow a small snowpatch, bypassing it from below. Next, overcome a 10-meter chimney on steep granite rocks to reach the ridge. Protection through outcrops. The further 50 m path along the ridge on easy rocks presents no significant difficulties. A control cairn is built at the highest point of this section. Descend to the base of a gendarme along easy rocks on the ridge and a 4-meter wall. The gendarme is bypassed on the left by descending down the rock and snow along the gendarme for about 20 m. Pitons are used for protection during the bypass. Then, ascend to the right along easy rocks towards the ridge until reaching the boundary between rocks and snow. Descend from the ridge to a snowpatch via a narrow chockstone. Approach the next gendarme, which is taken head-on, along the snowpatch. Once on the gendarme, move along smooth granite rocks and descend via a chimney to the foot of a large dome-shaped gendarme.

Description of the Ascent to the Summit

Alam-Darvesh from the North

via route 2A cat. difficulty I. Dushanbe – Gushaры village (by car – 42 km). II. Approaches. Past the chaikhana and the store – onto the slope behind the Gushaры village. The trail is visible from the road: it goes up the slope behind the village to the left and then up to the right. In about 30–40 minutes, the trail leads to a stream, after which a steep ascent to a small pass begins. The ascent takes 10–15 minutes. Then a well-defined trail traverses the slope, approaching a powerful stream in about half an hour. The Alam-Darvesh peak stands in the upper reaches of a large right tributary of this stream. At one point, the trail opens up a view to the left of the peak and the pass, named by V.I. Kryukov in honor of the compiler of this description (“Oh, what a nasty pass!”) — Sanprosvetrabotnikov pass. You should not go all the way to the mouth of the tributary. 40–50 minutes after passing the previously mentioned small pass, near large nut trees, a small trail branches off perpendicularly to the right from the main trail, leading to the cultivated terraces on the right (orographic) bank of the valley of interest. You can also go along the bottom of the valley, but during periods of high water, you may have to climb high onto the slope to bypass the rock walls that approach the water.

Ascent Route Description to the Summit

Babr from the North 1B–6B cat. diff.

The Babr peak (about 4020 m above sea level) is located in the southern spurs of the Hissar ridge, in the Sang-i-Navishta mountain group, in the ridge dividing the basins of the glaciers:

• Sangalt
• Avicenna between the peaks Khar'kov and Piramida. The peak is a rocky massif with a gendarme located on the right in the ridge of the peak (when viewed from the Sangalt glacier, from where the ascent is made). From the overnight stay located at the left edge of the Sangalt glacier (below the Kruglaya peak), we cross the firn plateau of the cirque and exit to a snowy slope, then ascend to the heavily destroyed rocks, and climb to the northern ridge of the peak — below the gendarme. On the right side of the ridge, we approach a vertical cleft and ascend to the highest point of the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme to the saddle is rationally done "sitting on a rope" (5 m). From the saddle to the summit, the ascent proceeds along the ledges on the right side of the ridge. On the ridge, saddle, and ledges along the way to the summit, the rocks are heavily destroyed and there are many loose stones.