V. Bubis — Chanchakhi, traverse, 4B cat. dif.

CHANCHAKHI PASS TSEY-CHANCHAHI PASS TSEY — "LILA" Tbilisi BUBIS SOUTHEAST RIDGE EAST SHOULDER DOME Bol. Zh.

Nadmu Severn. Burzhukla 4338 n. Korocharka r. Boyus Bogos Sevo n. Burevestnik pik Peti r. Vkok Karaugomskoe plato

V. Karaugom, Traverse, 4B cat. diff.

Western Eastern North-East ridge Shoulder Bol. Zh. R1 R2 R3

AND EASTERN VIA NORTH-EAST WALL, 4A cat. diff. II+ III IV IV+ III+ R6 EASTERN

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12

SOUTH-WEST NORTH RIDGE - SLOPE SONGUTI I NORTH-WEST EDGE EAST BRANCH OF KARAUGOM PLATEAU

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, classification section number - 2.8.
2. Kuardjin Tsentr. (2600 m) - Araukhoh Tsentr. (2550 m); traverse.
3. Proposed 3A category of difficulty; first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. The height difference of the route is up to 150 m. The length of the route is 2200 m. The length of sections with 5 category of difficulty - 2 m. The average steepness of the key sections of the route is 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 20°.
6. Hooks left on the route - 2.
7. Team's working hours - 8, days - 2.
8. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich - MS

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge
3. Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections:

• 4–5 — 40 m
• 3 — 200 m, average steepness:
• chimney — 60°
• ridge — 45°

ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified.

Day 1

The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Caucasus, Adyr-Su valley
3. Mt. Dzhailyk, via the Central counterfort of the South wall (Khazkevich's route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 600 m Height difference of the wall section — 300 m, route length — 1137 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 202 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock, bolt, ice, and chock placements: 38/3, 4×, 1+2×, 49/6× (reuse of previously driven pitons)
7. Travel time: — 8.5 hours, days — 1