2. The climbing area is the Fan Mountains.
3. The ascent route is to peak Diamar (3900) via the center of the northeast face. C. 3 cat.-4 π 1/111–29: — 45.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 60°, length of difficult sections — 245 m.
5. Number of pitons driven: rock — 54, ice — , screw (bolts) —
6. Total travel time — 18.5 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays — 1 (lying down).

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay 5.3.
3. Peak: Diamar, height 3300 m, route via the left part of the NE wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: a. height difference 800 m. b. average steepness 70°. c. section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. DIAMAR GLAVNY (4000 m) via the center of the NE wall, 3rd ascent of the route.
4. Proposed difficulty category: — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 750 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 560 m. average steepness of the entire route — 65 degrees. average steepness of the wall section — 75 degrees.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing capsule: Skalny
2. Climbing area, ridge: 5.3. Zaravshan ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Diemar (4000 m) via the north face, category 5B difficulty
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty 379 m
   • Average steepness 66°
6. Other removable protection points hammered:
   • rock T22 — 38
   • for creating intermediate anchor points (rock) — 7

Description

The ascent was made in August 1972 by the group from the "Artuch" alpine camp (Spartak recreation center, Leningrad Mountain Society) consisting of:

1. Rezentuller A., 2nd category, leader,
2. Guryan D., 1st category,
3. Vestrova I., 2nd category,
4. Dyktaykov V., 2nd category,
5. Efimov V., 2nd category The Maly Diamar peak (3600m) is located in the eastern part of the Diamar massif and is separated from the Diamar peak by a wide, lowered section of the ridge with isolated rock outcrops. A steep, wide, rocky descent branches off the slope from the summit.

ры­же­в цве­та was not translated as per the instruction to keep the original text for non-Russian quotes/passages; however, the rest of the given text is translated as follows: Reddish-colored rock, the cliff is bypassed on the right, 20 m, 2 hooks. From the site, 3 m left-down along the shelf, under the slipping, unfolded to the left, vertical column of legs is inside the inner corner with a wide crack inside. Up the corner —

• 35 m, 4 hooks, climbing is difficult. At the top — a convenient site for belaying. These 2 ropes — the first key point of the route. Further, there is a gentle ridge with several gendarmes. Between the gendarmes, the movement is simultaneous. The first two gendarmes are bypassed, the first one — — to the right, with belaying for ledges, the second — to the left along a wide scree shelf at its base. The third gendarme is overcome initially head-on, 20 m, belaying

On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team. From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:

• 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
• then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
• exit to the ridge of the buttress. Protection is by pitons. Further along the left side of the ridge:
• 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
• 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney. After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it.

Ascents

1. Ascent class: Technical ascent class.
2. Ascent area, peak: Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (53)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok peak, height 5070 m, ascent route via the West face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference
   • length of sections 5–6

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West Face, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Height difference: 650 m. Length: 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nuts | Friends |

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West wall, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Elevation gain: 650 m. Distance: 1330 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 52° Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons driven: