Description
The ascent was made in August 1972 by the group from the "Artuch" alpine camp (Spartak recreation center, Leningrad Mountain Society) consisting of:
- Rezentuller A., 2nd category, leader,
- Guryan D., 1st category,
- Vestrova I., 2nd category,
- Dyktaykov V., 2nd category,
- Efimov V., 2nd category
The Maly Diamar peak (3600m) is located in the eastern part of the Diamar massif and is separated from the Diamar peak by a wide, lowered section of the ridge with isolated rock outcrops.
A steep, wide, rocky descent branches off the slope from the summit.
To the north, the peak drops off to the cliffs with rocky walls and a distinct ridge extending northwest from the highest point of the summit.
To the east, the massif drops off in a steep, deep cirque with a stream flowing along its bottom.
From the initial bivouac at the eastern Zakat (departure at 4:00), head west onto a gentle, grassy ridge extending north from the summit. Follow the ridge, initially on a trail, then on easy, gentle rocks towards the summit. After a short rocky ascent, the ridge changes direction, transitioning into a northwest ridge; the steepness of the path begins to increase rapidly. At the top of the ascent, near a small stream, is a control point. Follow the stream to the right and upwards towards the saddle between peak 3600 and Diamar. The rocks do not present obstacles, are gentle, and do not require belaying. After approximately 200m, the path leads directly to the base of the rocky massif of the northwest ridge. Here, we connect with a rope and put on climbing shoes (galoshes). A short wall is taken head-on (1 piton). Above the wall is a narrow, sunlit ledge beneath a high rocky wall. Ascend to the platform at the top of a protruding rock from the wall.