Ascent Passport
- Rock climbing category
- Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
- p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West Face, Ilyin V. route
- Difficulty category: 5A
- Height difference: 650 m.
Length: 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
- Pitons hammered:
| Rock | Nuts | Friends |
|---|---|---|
| 25 | 30 | 17 |
- Team's travel time: 12 hours
- No overnight stays. The route was completed in 1 day.
- Team Leader: Reshetov Denis Mikhailovich 1st sports category. Participant: Kazakov Andrey Eduardovich 1st sports category.
- Coach: Kazakov Andrey Eduardovich 1st sports category.
- Approach: August 4, 2000. Departure for the route: August 5, 2000 at 6:30 AM Summit: August 5, 2000 at 6:30 PM Return: August 6, 2000 at 2:00 PM
p. Zamok (5070 m)
General photo of the summit
Permit for the ascent
The team's permit for the ascent was issued in accordance with the "Rules for Climbing in the Mountains".
Issuing officer: Arefieva Rufina Grigorievna, Master of Sports, 1st category instructor. Control deadline was taken at the rescue team of MATC "Alauddin-Vertical".
Tactical actions of the team
The team familiarized themselves with the route description and received consultation at MATC "Alauddin-Vertical". Considering the good weather conditions, it was decided to complete the route in one day. Nevertheless, they took a minimal supply of equipment for a possible overnight stay (mats, stove, food, water).
On August 4, 2000, they approached the route and spent the night on the "pedestal" below the route. On August 5, they departed from the campsite at 6:30 AM. It was cold, with strong wind, and the wall was not lit by the sun until 12-1 PM.
The first climber went with a lightened backpack in rock shoes, while the second climber wore boots with top rope protection. Kazakov A.E. worked on sections R1-R9, and Reshetov D.M. worked on sections R10-R13.
The entire route was climbed using free climbing without the use of aid climbing techniques. The team reached the summit at 6:30 PM. They began their descent at 6:40 PM and descended to the overnight stay location by 8:00 PM.
Route scheme in UIAA symbols
| Pitons | Friends | Sections in UIAA symbols | Length (m) | Difficulty category | Steepness | Section | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5070 m | |||||||
| 250 | I | 5° | R19 | ||||
| 100 | II | 30° | R18 | ||||
| 1 | 50 | III | 20° | R17 | |||
| 2 | 40 | III | 45° | R16 | |||
| 2 | 20 | V | 75° | R15 | |||
| 1 | 2 | 30 | III | 20° | R14 | ||
| 1 | 80 | II | 20° | R13 | Overnight stay location | ||
| 1 | 3 | 80 | III+ | 40° | R12 | ||
| 2 | 40 | III | 35° | R11 | |||
| 3 | 1 | 35 | V+ | 55° | R10 | ||
| 1 | 1 | 100 | IV | 35° | R9 | Control point №3 | |
| 2 | 60 | V | 35° | R8 | |||
| 2 | 40 | III | 35° | R7 | |||
| 2 | 60 | IV | 60° | R6 | Control point №2 | ||
| 3 | 10 | V–VI | 80° | R5 | |||
| 2 | 1 | 40 | IV–V | 65° | R4 | ||
| 1 | 4 | 80 | V | 65° | R3 | ||
| 2 | 30 | III | 60° | R2 | |||
| 2 | 90 | III–IV | 35° | R1 | Control point №1 | ||
| 1 | 80 | III | 30° | R0 |
Route description by sections
The route begins at the left edge of the scree slope R0.
Up the slab along the edge of the scree.
R1
Left-up along the slabs for 80-100 m to the shoulder of the West Ridge.
Control point №1.
R2-R4
Along the ridge straight up. Easy free climbing.
R5
Inner corner. Difficult climbing. Key section of the route. Short, 10 m.
R6
Slab. Exit to a scree shoulder. Control point №2. Possible bivouac. No water.
R7
Wall. Straight up for 40 m.
R8
Along the slab to the left. Easy friction climbing. Overhanging jagged rock above. 50 m.
R9
Traverse to the left, bypassing the rock and then left-up to the shoulder. Control point №3 here. 100 m.
R10
From the control point up along the ridge of slabs for 35 m, difficult climbing.
R11
Right-up to bypass the slabs for 40 m.
R12
Up along the slabs. Exit to a scree ledge.
R13
Traverse to the left along the scree ledge leads to a small scree shoulder. Possible overnight stay location. Water available.
R14
From the overnight stay location, cross the couloir with ice. Then traverse to the left along a smooth ledge for 30 m.
R15
Then up along the broken ridge, transitioning into a wall. On the wall, 10-15 m of difficult climbing.
R16
Right-up along the groove-corner - exit to the ridge.
R17
Up for 50 m, left of the inner corner with ice. Exit to the pre-summit plateau. Possible bivouac with water.
R18
Right-up along the ice slope. Crampons required. Exit to the pre-summit ridge.
R19
Along the ridge for 300 m to the summit.
Descent
Descent towards p. Paykhamber along the black slab scree for about 500 m.
Bypass the rock jendar to the right, descend lower, and then ascend back to the ridge.
Exit to the saddle between p. Zamok and p. Paykhamber.
From the saddle, down the ice (do not turn into the scree couloir earlier).
Cross the glacier from left to right and down. Caution, crevasses present.
From the glacier, descend to the right along the scree to the overnight stay location.