I. Climbing category — technically complex. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Peak — ALAUDIN, from Dhanat pass, 4142 m, via the northern ridge. 4. Estimated complexity category — 3A. 5: Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 10 m. 6. Number of anchors installed: - rock anchors — 16 pieces - ice anchors — none

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V. Alaudin, 3B, via North-West wall (route by O. Solovey, 79)

Approach: a) through Alaudin pass, then through the saddle between v. Alaudin and Borcov za Mir to the rocky saddle of the North ridge (Djanat pass). b) from the lakes along the scree slopes of the Eastern wall directly to the saddle of the North ridge. R0–R1: From the saddle slightly down and then to the inclined shelf. Along the shelf (medium difficulty rocks) exit to a large scree shelf. R1–R2: Along the shelf to the right 10 m under a small wall. R2–R3: Ascend the wall, protection at the protrusion. R3–R5: Along the scree shelves 2 ropes of 40 m - traverse to the right. Piton protection is difficult - destroyed rock.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak Alaudin (4237 m) via the southern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3–6
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m; average steepness – 60°; section lengths: I – 110 m; II – 285 m; III – 240 m; IV – 55 m; V – 17 m; VI – 0 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating intermediate anchors rock – 22, ice – 0, bolt – 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 7 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: —

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2B, via the North face (N. Morev's route, 79)

1 – via the East ridge, cat. 2A 2 – via the North face, cat. 2B Approach to the North face route. From the Alaudin pass, go right and down, in the direction of the East ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further scree and grassy slopes lead under the North walls of the East ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Big Alaudin lake

Route sections

• R0 – start of the route.
• R1: 150 m, 40°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Bortsov za Mir, 3800 m, via the northwestern spur of the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m (3400–3800 m); total route length — 1400 m; average steepness of key sections — 60°;
6. Number of pitons (including chocks):

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P. Borcov za mir, ZA, South buttress of the West ridge (V. Ivchik route, 77)

Approach to the route via the South buttress of the West ridge. From the Alaudin pass, go right-down in the direction of the West ridge of Borcov za mir peak. Then scree and grassy slopes lead to the base of the South buttress of the West ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is from the gendarme. oz. B. Apaudinskoe P. Borcov za mir via South buttress of the West ridge, cat. diff. R6 80 m, 30–40°, 3–2+ R5 20 m, 50°, + Gendarme R4 40 m, 60°, 4- R3 80 m, 45–55°, 3–3+

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical ascent category
2. Ascent region — Fann Mountains, spur of the Zeravshan Range
3. Peak
   • Borzov za Mir
   • a) elevation — 4100 m
   • b) ascent route — via the South face
4. Expected category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • a) elevation gain — 300 m

To the head coach of mountaineering of the USSR Sports Committee, Comrade SHAATAEV V.N. To the chairman of the classification commission of the FAM USSR, Comrade PETRASHKO G.A. We are submitting a report on the ascent of v. Borzov za mir via the center of the southern wall, made on July 13, 1980, by a group of climbers from al "Artuch" led by Bezverkhy A.I. Conclusion on the route: The ascent of v. Borzov za mir, 4100 m, via the center of the S wall is a first ascent. The route is of a rocky nature and corresponds to the 4A category of complexity by its technical difficulty. We request that this report be reviewed and the route of ascent to v. Borzov za mir via the center of the southern wall be classified. Head of KSP in the Fann Mountains T. MUMDJI November 13, 1980. Leader A. Bezverkhy + 4 people.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. VEI, 4400 m, South-West ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — none average steepness 45°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 15

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Gardish, 4590 m, via the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1000 m, height difference — 1230 m, average steepness — 63°.
6. Pitons driven: