Description of the First Ascent of Peak "4020" (Peak A. Zyuzin)

1. Historical Background

Alexander Semenovich Zyuzin (1903–1970), an outstanding Soviet mountaineer, Honored Master of Sports, and one of the founders of mountaineering in Ukraine. He was a mountaineering instructor since 1934, organizer of the first student mountaineering expedition to Elbrus in 1936, founder of the "Stal" alpine camp in the Adyrsu gorge on the Central Caucasus, and head of the training department of the All-Union School of Mountaineering Instructors, Ukrainian School of Instructors, and others. Since 1937, he was the creator and first chairman of the Dnepropetrovsk regional section (federation) of mountaineering, a member of the presidiums of the All-Union and Ukrainian sections (federations) of mountaineering. In 1937, he was awarded the title of Master of Sports in mountaineering, and in 1947, he was awarded the honorary title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering. A.M. Zyuzin, a scientist-geodesist, is credited with the first research and mapping of many mountainous regions of the Central Caucasus, including Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, Sugan, and Tepli. In these regions, he made numerous first ascents and first passages between 1937 and 1947. In particular, in the Adyrsu-Tyutyusu region, he first conquered the peaks of Orubashi, Kenchat, Kayarta, and others, and passed new routes on Adyrsu-bashi and others. In the Sullukol gorge region, A.M. Zyuzin made the first ascents and gave names to Peak Stal (3855 m) and Termen-bashi (3950 m). To commemorate the centenary of A.M. Zyuzin's birth, the SOAB "Ullutau" together with the mountaineering expedition of the Dnepropetrovsk regional mountaineering federation decided to organize the first ascent to the peak "4020 m" in the Sullukol gorge, located between the peaks Stal and Termen, discovered by A.M. Zyuzin, and propose to name this peak "Peak Zyuzin".

2. Geographical Characteristics

Uri­ma­go­va's Face

1. Climb category — technical
2. Climbing region — Pamir, Pgo — Western
3. Climbing route with indication of the peak and height: p. 5215 m (peak Sovetsky Badakhshan) via Western spur
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1215 m, average steepness — 80°, length of complex section — 850 m
5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 279, ice — 11, bolt — 3
6. Number of walking hours — 9 h
7. Number of overnight stays — 8 including lying in tent — 5, in hammocks — 3

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974 I. ASCENT CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. ASCENT REGION — south-western Pamir 3. ASCENT ROUTE — peak Engels (6510 m) via the north face from the Piabon valley 4. ASCENT CHARACTERISTICS — Route length — 2470 m, including:

• main wall (from the base of the black bastion to the top of the "tower") — 1435 m
• overhanging part of the wall (red and light quartz bastions) Height difference — (6510–4360 m)

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 5596 M (BROLYAI BAYORAS) VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR Team (South-West Pamir, Shakhdara Range, Vakhan Range) 1340, IV-V, 257, 70°, 17 cm, 14 m of ice, 9 h, 3 days. Team Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Coach: GUDYALIS A.V. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR – 232075, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53. Team Leader: Bayorene Jurate Genrikovna

The Peak of Courage

Transfigured by the last rays of the sun, the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains become a fantastical sight… The departing sun's final beams slide along the ridge, painting the ice- and snow-capped peaks a fiery red. As the light fades, one peak remains aglow like a torch against the darkening sky: Pik Komsomola. Mountains, like people, have their own biographies. Little is known about unconquered peaks beyond their altitude, while others have inspired poetic legends. Pik Komsomola belongs to the latter category of majestic mountains with an intriguing history. The people of Almaty had attempted to conquer Pik Komsomola, looming above their city, on multiple occasions, only to be forced to retreat each time. With each failure, the peak's reputation grew, and legends about its inaccessibility were born. Thirty-seven years ago, T. Beloglazov, I. Mysovskiy, and V. Gorbunov successfully ascended Maloalmatinskiy peak (now known as Pik Komsomola). This inaugural ascent is considered the birthdate of high-altitude mountaineering in Kazakhstan. In the summer of 1935, on the initiative of the capital's Komsomol organization, a mass Komsomol alpinada was organized to conquer Maloalmatinskiy peak[^1]. In a single day, 250 participants reached the summit. The public highly praised the mountaineers' feat. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee issued a special decree: "The Kazakh Central Executive Committee notes the brilliant victory of the Almaty Komsomol members, who, in honor of the 15th anniversary of the Kazakh SSR, conquered Maloalmatinskiy peak in a group of 250. Such an ascent has occurred for the first time in the history of mass mountaineering." The Kazakh Central Executive Committee expressed gratitude to all participants and hoped that each of them would become an organizer of mass mountain conquests. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee decreed:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: Southwest wall of Peak Yuzhny Talgar — 5000 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain 1000 m
   • average steepness 65°
   • length of complex sections 650 m.
5. Number of pitons hammered in — 68.

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Jacques Balmat

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
3. Karatash peak, height 4100 m, ascent route via the Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category 3–6
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 600 m, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered in: For belaying: rock pitons 36 For creating ITO: ice pitons —, bolt pitons —

USSR Climbing Championship 1988. Rock class.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Zamin Karor (Western shoulder 4070) via the right part of the NW wall (variant) by the team of the State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR. Team leader: Yevgeny V. Prilepa. Team coach: Vyacheslav I. Lavrukhin. State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR Dushanbe, tel. 22-32-27 Chief coach Almin R.