Тraverse of Muruntau - Toguzak with ascent to Toguzak, category 2B route. The beginning of the route description is given in the section on ascending Muruntau peak. From Muruntau peak, the path goes along the southwest ridge to the saddle between Muruntau and Toguzak peaks. Initially, there is a descent with a height loss of 250-300 m. The ridge is snowy, with rocks protruding in some places, including a significant gendarme (bypassed to the left). The ridge has cornices hanging to the east. To the west, the ridge drops steeply for about four hundred meters. Careful belaying is necessary. On the saddle itself, there is a gendarme that is tackled head-on. After the gendarme, there is an ascent along the northeast ridge of Toguzak peak. The ridge is mostly icy and steep. At the beginning of the ridge, proceed for 200 m, then deviate to the east and, with step-cutting, overcome the remaining section to the sub-summit, which is connected to the summit by a short ridge. Toguzak peak is a narrow ridge rising several meters above the sub-summit. Cairns are built on the sub-summit and the summit. From Muruntau peak to Toguzak peak, it takes 3-3.5 hours. Descent is done along the ridge going west from the summit. The descent route is described in the ascent to Toguzak peak.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - no more than 10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right moraine of Toguzak glacier.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 3-4 rock pitons; c) 2 hammers.

Overnight stay at the GMS station on the Roluбина glacier, crossing the glacier, approach to the slopes of p. Ала-Арча near a large moraine. Start of the route:

• Along the scree shelf to the red gendarme on the right side.
• Then up the steep snowy couloir with a stone plug at the top, entering the shelf between the gendarme and the wall (30 m, 40–45°, Cat. diff.).
• Traverse along the scree side of the ridge — 50 m, Cat. diff.
• Ascend medium-difficulty rocks to the control point — 10 m, Cat. diff.
• Then straight up medium-difficulty rocks under the wall (80 m, Cat. diff.).
• Up the wall with piton belay, exit to the main shelf (40 m, 70°; III–IV cat. diff.).

Brief explanation of the table

Peak Ba'checheke is located in the Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai horseshoe, between the peaks Uchitel and Skryabin. The route is combined: the path to the summit goes through 103 counter-force, i.e., along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the rocky bastion. When the bastion ends, the counter-force of the bastion turns into the pre-summit ridge. The entire route can be conditionally divided into the following characteristic sections:

• Section 1
• Section 2
• Section 3 | Section | 0-1 | — Couloir 5 |

Ascent Passport

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
2. Pk. Baychechekhey, 4515 m, route via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall
3. 5A cat. dif.
4. Rock
5. Route height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1430 m. Section lengths:

• V cat. dif. — 135 m.
• VI cat. dif. — 6 m.

II CATEGORY II ROUTES

I. Category of First Ascents 2. Kirgizskiy Alatoo, Aksay gorge 3. p. Baychechekhey via the central counterfort of the Western wall 4. 5B approximately 5. Elevation gain 1080 m., length 1350 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty rating: 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 72°, including 6th difficulty rating sections: 80–85° (60 m), 90–95° (20 m) 6. Pitons used: rock pitons

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face (claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category). And on the traverse of peak "Kirgizstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed for the Central Council Championship of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society). Alma-Ata, 1963 www.alpfederation.ru

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society on July 5-8, 1963, completed the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face, claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category, and on July 1-3, they completed a traverse of the peak with ascent via the North face. Peak "Kirgizstan" is located in the upper reaches of the Salyk glacier in the Alamedin gorge, in the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range (see the Kyrgyz Ala-Too map) in the area of the Alamedin walls, very popular among climbers of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The absolute height of the peak is 4840 m. It is the highest point of the latitudinal part of the Alamedin spur.

200 m 30′

• R2 200 m 30′
• R3 200 m 45′

100 m

• R6 20 m 45′

200 m

• R5 40 m 50′

200 m

• R4 40 m 10′

Lo­ca­tion. The Peak 30 let VLKSM is lo­ca­t­ed on the ridge of the Ja­la­my­sh­sky spur of the Kyrgyz Range and is its first peak to the north of the junction, where this spur branches off in a practically meridional direction from the So­ku­luk­sky spur. To the north of the peak, its other neighbor, the Pan­filov Peak, rises. From the summit to the east, a counter­fors runs, which flows along the Yu. Ady­gene gla­cier, making a turn to the north. The entire northern slope of the counter­fors is co­ver­ed with a han­ging gla­cier, which forms a small gla­cier at the foot. The western slope of the peak is steep and dissected by numerous rocky ribs made of cry­stal­line chlo­rite schists. Ex­ter­nally, the summit re­semb­les a re­gular three-faced py­ra­mid and is well vis­i­ble from the entire Ady­ge­ne area.

As­cent via the North Ridge

The rou­te, like the pre­vi­ous one, starts from the "Elektro" camp­si­te and coin­ci­des with it in the ini­tial part. Af­ter the slope of the Elektro peak turns to the west, you should not go to the left mo­re­ne of the Yu. Ady­ge­ne gla­cier. You need to con­tin­ue mo­ving along the same hol­low in the south­ern di­rec­tion, where the beau­ti­ful py­ra­mid — the goal of the as­cent — is al­most al­ways vis­i­ble. The hol­low leads to the val­ley be­tween the Pan­filov Peak and the Peak 30 let VLKSM, which forms two cham­bers here:

• the north­ern one
• the south­ern one, ad­ja­cent di­rectly to the Peak 30 let VLKSM From this val­ley, the bot­tom of which is paved with mo­ren­ic ridges, it is nec­es­sary to as­cend to the ridge con­nect­ing the two men­tioned sum­mits. There are two vari­ants of the path to this ridge:
• The first one: along the slope with an exit to the col (the 30 let VLKSM pass) from the south­ern cham­ber. The path to the pass runs along a loose scree.

Ascending Peak Maly Tourist via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B)

We leave the base camp, located on a sandbar in front of the tongues of Gl. Researchers and Chon-Turasu, at 10:30. Moving along the sandbar alongside a stream running near the tents, we approach the tongue of Gl. Chon-Turasu and begin to bypass it from the left (north) along the same stream. To our left are:

• heaps of enormous old moraines
• moraines lying on dead ice The stream disappears into the stones, and we come to a depression located between the scree slopes of the ridge between Pik Skalisty and Pik Maly Tourist to the north and the modern terminal and lateral moraines of Gl. Researchers to the south (old lateral moraines are absent). A large stream with clear water flows along the flat bottom of the hollow. The stream is not deep, and we cross it several times via stones. Soon the stream turns right, while we continue moving along the hollow. At 12:30, we ascend to a rampart (its upper part is covered with calcite boulders) blocking the hollow and enter a flat and almost horizontal gravel area about 150 m long and 30–50 m wide. After climbing the next rampart (from here, it's easy to ascend to the glacier's surface), we enter a second almost horizontal area. The area stretches for 400–500 m and ends under a powerful monolithic buttress descending from the ridge's bend before Pik Maly Tourist. The lower part of the area is silted, with a small lake. The lake is fed by:
• one large stream,
• several small streams from the slope of Pik Skalisty. The buttress descending from the ridge's bend cuts into the glacier (as do several other buttresses located higher along the glacier) and deflects it to the south. At the same time, it "dumps" the glacier's lateral moraine closer to its middle. This explains the formation of such large depressions and the absence of a lateral moraine on the glacier.

Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier. To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early. The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak. At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.