Вер­ши­на Че­гет-Тау

ET-TAV-UA­HA

00 м

1. вер­ши­на 4100 м becomes Peak Cheget-Tau

PHOTO BY SEMEN WITH CM. ROTSHEHROV AND ROMAN ROMANOV WITH "IO-MO-KO-MANM" ON NIINKA "SVE-NO" 64 p. GUEST

Route description

From the base camp 3500 m, cross to the left (orographic) bank of the Гуа­мыш river, then follow the trail to the terminal moraine of the Гуа­мыш glacier. Ascend to the left lateral moraine of the glacier. Here, in a small col between the lateral moraine and the western slope of peak 4470 (п. Би­ву­ач­ный), is the overnight stop. There is water available. The time from the base camp 3500 m to the overnight stop is 2–2.5 hours. From the overnight stop on the moraine of the Гуа­мыш glacier:

• ascend the talus slope to the plateau;
• follow the right (orographically) lateral moraine of glacier II I (п. Озёр­ный) to the start of the route. The start of the route is a wide snowy couloir with rocky outcrops on the left, leading to a col. Ascent:
• ascend easy rocks to the right to reach peak 4470 (п. Би­ву­ач­ный). The time from the overnight stop to peak 4470 (п. Би­ву­ач­ный) is 2–2.5 hours;
• continue along the ridge, descending to the col;

Ascent to the summit of BIVACHNAYA via S.–E. ridge, cat. 1B The ascent to the summit starts from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac located below the summit of Bivachnaya. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Khyrsa, and Kulay Djovanon up to the old moraine of the glacier, bypassing the north-eastern and eastern slopes of Bivachnaya. Then, start ascending to the right up the grassy and talus slopes towards the S.–E. ridge of the summit. To the left of the summit remains a saddle on the southern ridge leading to Kulay Djovanon. When ascending the lower and middle parts of the ridge, move to the left of the ridge, leaving rocks to the right. Small rocky ridges also protrude to the left. Continuing the ascent to the left of the ridge, approach the walls descending from the ridge. To the right of the walls, there is a shoulder on the ridge that you should aim for. From here, further movement is along the ridge rocks. The rocks are of moderate difficulty with diverse relief forms. Protection is alternating through rock projections. The final ascent to the summit is via easy rocks. Early in the season, there may be snow and cornices to the right, towards the north-east. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route back to the "Zelyonaya polyana" valley.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay 5.3.
3. Peak: Diamar, height 3300 m, route via the left part of the NE wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: a. height difference 800 m. b. average steepness 70°. c. section lengths:

5120 m

4220 m

• B10: He­he­berg (2x)
• B11: He­he­berg (2x)
• B12: He­he­berg (2x)
• B13: He­he­berg (2x)
• B14: He­he­berg (2x)
• B15: He­he­berg (2x)
• B16: He­he­berg (2x)

Chaget-chat (2964 m)

Fig. 2 View of the dome from top to bottom, August 2013