Ascent Passport

I. Sports organization: Kazakh Climbers' Club. 2. Ascent category: high-altitude, technically challenging. 3. Assault leader: Venckovskiy Gennadiy Zdislavovich. 1st sports category — 31 years old. 4. Participants: Akchurin, Marat Khasanovich, 1st sports category; Vereshchagin, Sergey Igorevich, 1st sports category; Il'inskiy, Aleksandr Fedorovich — 1st sports category. 5. Peak name, height: p. Zamok, 5070 m. 6. Geographic area: Pamiro-Alay, Fan Mountains. 7. Route: NW edge, rock. 8. Route height: 1445 m.

REPORT

on the ascent to the Zamok peak via the northwestern edge (G. Venckovsky's route, 68), category 5A, from August 1, 2019, to August 2, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — Zamok peak via the central bastion of the Western wall, 5103 m.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, average steepness — 60°, length of the difficult section — 23 m and 160 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 104, ice — 0, bolt — 3.
6. Total climbing hours — 27 hours.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — two, good, water and snow available.
8. Team name — LOK DSO "Zenit".
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification — Oshe E.A. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, Popov V.I. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, Litvinov A.N. — participant, 1st sports category, Rybakov M.I. — participant, 1st sports category, Polyakov G.A. — participant, 1st sports category, Eltyshev A.I. — participant, 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technical.
2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Zamok Peak. H = 5,070 m. Via the E counterfort of the NNE wall. 2nd ascent.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, average steepness - 60–70°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO a) rock - 86 13 b) ice - — —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok, 5070 m, via the Eastern counterfort of the NNE wall, third ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: route length: 1100 m, height difference: 900 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections: fifth category – 280 m, sixth category – 35 m
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 106, ice 2, bolt 1 (used someone else's)
7. Number of climbing hours: 18 hours, climbing days – two
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak — Zamok, 5070 m
4. Route name — via the E counterfort of the NNE wall.
5. Difficulty category — 5B, presumed.
6. Height difference — 9000 m, approximately.
7. Average steepness — 65–70°.
8. Pitons driven rock — 103 ice — 13

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. V. Zamok, 5070 m, via the center of the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, route length — 1646 m, including wall section — 886 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 586 m, including sections with 6 cat. diff. — 268 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Eastern Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path from the wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m Total route length — 1675 m Length of sections with IV–VI complexity category — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Region: Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via Central Wall 4. Presumed Difficulty Category: 5B, first ascent 5. Route Characteristics: total height difference 860 m, average steepness 64°, including technical sections 76°, route length 1215 m, and sections with technical difficulty (m) 1 — 300, 2 — 30, 3 — 150, 4 — 250, 5 — 372, 6 — 113 6. Pitons Driven: for protection, removable + закладки 134, ice screw

V. Zamok, 5B, via the shortest path up the NNE wall (A. Plotnikov's route, 82)

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai. Eastern Fan Mountains, Zamok peak (5070 m) — via the shortest path up the NNE wall
3. Proposed complexity category — 5B
4. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m. Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with V–VI category difficulty — 690 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°
5. Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belay | ITO |