On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team.

From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:

• 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
• then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
• exit to the ridge of the buttress.

Protection is by pitons.

Further along the left side of the ridge:

• 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
• 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney.

After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it. Then:

• 60 m on rocks of medium difficulty left-up under a red spall;
• bypassing the spall — a difficult 20 m traverse right on a smooth slab;
• then 20 m up on difficult climbing to the ridge. Protection is by pitons.

On rocks of medium difficulty — one rope length of simultaneous movement — exit to a large rock platform. From the platform:

• right by traverse;
• then up a 20-meter steep monolithic wall — exit to a large niche under a yellow wall on a ledge going right — up.

First on the ledge, and then on rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress — three rope lengths — exit to the eastern ridge. At this point, an orientation cairn is laid out on the ridge. From the start of the route to the ridge — 3 hours 30 minutes.

When moving further from the cairn, a huge pronounced inner corner "book" with smooth slab-like sides is a landmark.

Cross the couloir right-up (15 m), and then:

• on a ledge going left — up,
• on rocks above the average category of difficulty 40 m — approach to the base of the "book".

80 m of difficult climbing on the "book", and, not reaching the black streak 15 m, turn left-up and on difficult red rocks after 15 m exit to a ledge. On the ledge is the second control cairn.

From the cairn, 15–20 m on a horizontal ledge left — exit to the left edge of the "book".

60 m of difficult climbing up on the slab-like rocks of the edge under a red cornice. Bypassing the cornice on the left, two rope lengths on rocks above medium difficulty — exit to the pre-summit ridge.

After crossing the couloir, protection is everywhere by pitons. On simple rocks of the pre-summit ridge, three rope lengths to the west — exit to the summit of Maly Diamir. From the couloir to the summit 4 hours 30 minutes.

Descent to the other side to the plateau between the summits of Diamir and Sary-Shakh. From the plateau to the east down to the pass and then on a trail to Ziyarat lake.

The descent trail is marked with cairns. The descent from the summit takes 1 hour 30 minutes.