REPORT

on the ascent to the peak "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge (second ascent) 4Б cat. diff., accomplished by the group of Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" Frunze, 1978.

General view of the route

BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE

Approach from the Baitor camp to the route. The route follows a not clearly defined broad counterfort. Passable ice slope 45°, 80 m. Exit into a narrow couloir, which leads to a ledge in front of a monolithic rock wall. We move left along a snow-ice slope with step cutting, piton belay. Further, two ropes of difficult rock directly upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed. Control cairn on the ledge. From the ledge upwards along difficult rocks, three ropes. Further 20 m of easy rocks, exit onto the ridge. At 20:00, we stop for the night on a rock ledge. Control cairn. Departure from the bivouac at 8:00. Along an ice slope with rock outcrops, we exit onto the main ridge. Along easy rocks, we reach a saddle. Further, one rope of snow-ice slope, one rope of rock ascent, and the ridge continues with easy rocks, steepness up to 40°. Along it, we exit onto the summit. Descent towards the Baitor pass, further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier and down to the camp.

Appendix 2

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge. 3. Peak - p. 60-letiya Velikoy Oktyabrskoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii, height 4906 m, ascent route - via the eastern counterfort. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m average steepness - 75° length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 532 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

Appendix No. 1 24 ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak — p. 60-letiya Velikoy Oktyabr'skoy Sotsialisticheskoy revolyutsii, height 4906 m, ascent route — via the eastern counterfort (3rd ascent)
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m

Yunost 4300 25 to the Summit ridge P. Magomedova + 2 "Black Fang" 4255 Map of the axial part of the Terskey-Alatau ridge — upper reaches of the Djety-Oguz river.

Brief description of the approach to the route

Peak "Yunost" 4300 m (the height of the peak is given based on the topographic survey on a scale of 1:100,000, ed. 1962, is located in the northern spur of the Terskey-Ada-Too watershed ridge in the upper reaches of the left component of the Djety-Oguz river - the Baitor river, in the left part of the Baitor gorge (see map)). From Przewalsk by bus to the Djety-Oguz resort. Further along the Djety-Oguz gorge along the road to the Telety gorge 12 km.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Technical Ascent Region — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jedy-Oguz gorge 3. Peak — Dostyk peak, 4300 m, ascent route via North-Eastern ridge 4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, length of sections with III–IV difficulty category — 580 m, average steepness 45° 6. Pitons hammered in: for rock protection — II, ice — 0, bolt — 0

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Pik Yunost, 4300 m, ascent route via the South ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 454 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 850 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 22, ice — 0, bolted — 0
7. Number of climbing hours — II

Ascent Route to the Summit

(Mt. Akstinas, 4250 m, Category 2B difficulty) The summit of Mt. Akstinas is located in the Tian Shan mountain range, on a spur of the Terskey-Alatau ridge, which runs from west to north and from the west side closes the Karakol valley. The summit of Mt. Akstinas together with the summit of Litovskikh Alpinistov (total ridge length — 2 km) closes a rocky amphitheater filled with eternal snow and ice. The path from the base camp, which is located at the confluence of the two rivers On-Tor and Kol-Tor, goes along a trail on the left bank of the Ot-Tor River to the tongue of the On-Tor glacier. Here are the "lower" campsite, the journey takes 4 hours. The "upper" campsite is located on the southern green slope of the Litovskikh Alpinistov summit. The path to the "upper" campsite:

• along the right lateral moraine to the On-Tor glacier;
• then, bypassing the Litovskikh Alpinistov summit from the left, we cross over to the glacier located on the right. The journey to the "upper" campsite takes 2-3 hours. The path then leads to the summit of Mt. Akstinas. We ascend a steep moraine to the Bezymyannyy glacier, and along it to the saddle between the Bezymyannaya and Mt. Akstinas summits. The journey takes 3-4 hours.

Climbing Passport

1. Class: technical ascent.
2. Area: central Tien Shan, Arashan valley.
3. Route: ascent to the eastern peak of Ak-Su wall (4650 m) via the southern counterfort from Stepkin Pass.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, total length of difficult sections — 150 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock — 13, ice — 1.
6. Time spent on the route: 13 hours.
7. Characteristics of bivouacs: no bivouacs on the route.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: p. Zap. Albatros via SW ridge through p. Epyura
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1010 m length of complex section average steepness
5. Pitons used: rock 4, ice, bolted
6. Total hours on the move: 8 h

Team Championship of CS DSO "TRUD" 1969 in Alpinism Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH-WESTERN COUNTERFORCE OF PIK ALBATROS — ROUTE 5A cat. diff. (Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, height 4740 m) Team of MGS DSO "Trud" July 18-20, 1969 Moscow, 1969

I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE REGION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT.

Pik Albatros (eastern peak — 4800 m, western — 4740 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge and closes the Kок-bor gorge (55 km south of Przhevalsk). The peak is located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kокbor River, which is a right tributary of the Karakol River.