PASSPORT

1. Class: snow-ice
2. Central Tien-Shan: Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak Oguz-Bashi Glavnaya: via the north-eastern wall
4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1468 m, length 1970 m Length of categorized sections: 1340 m Average steepness of the main part: 50° Route length: 430

Passport

I CLASS 2-technical. Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. Oguz-Bashi Peak (5170) via North-East wall. 4A cat. diff. Height difference: 1600 m, wall section: 900 m. Length: 2700 m (including descent to the glacier). Length of sections with 5-6 diff.: 700 m. Average slope of the route: 55°, with 6 diff.: 75°. Pitons used:

• rock: 25
• ice: 32
• chocks: 16.5 Team's travel time: 48 hours, days: 4.

ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class: ICE-SNOW II. Ascent area: VEKE­TY-O­GUZ valley, TAN' MAM' 3. Peak O­GUZ-BA­SHI 28 Western 4. Difficulty category: VIA LEFT PART VIA 5B diff. cat. (ORIEN­T) 5. Route characteristics: - elevation gain: 750 m - length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 2750 m - average steepness: 47° 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
5. Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
6. Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ice and snow
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
5. Height difference — 665 m
6. Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
7. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |

Passport

I. Class — ice and snow. 2. Terskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak Oguz-Baschi 2nd Western, via the ice couloir on the North face. 4. Proposed 5B category difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: total — 840 m; wall section — 740 m, its length 838 m, average steepness — 65°. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 38 m, V — 800 m. 6. Pitons driven:

1. Ice class
2. Teskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak Oguz-bashi 2nd West along the northern wall
4. Peak Oguz-bashi, cat. dif. 5B, second ascent
5. Height difference: 800 m, length — 1060 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 700 m, average steepness of the entire route ~ 55° (4200–5000 m), of which: 50° (4200–4500 m), 80° (4500–4700 m), 70° (4700–4950 m)
6. Pitons driven (approximately):
   • rock 60, ice 90, chocks 6
7. Team's climbing hours to the summit — 14.5 hours
8. Convenient overnight stay on the summit ridge.
9. Team leader Khilko Vladimir Pavlovich — CMS (unofficial)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Pik Chyorny Klyk, 4255 m, ascent route via the Southern ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; length of sections with 2–3 cat. diff. — 680 m; average steepness 44°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Pik Chernyy Klyk, 4255 m, ascent route via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 576 m, length of sections III–IV difficulty category — 830 m, average steepness 50°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 14, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours — 9

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 let Velikoy Oktyabr'skoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii (5006) via W buttress. 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section 5–6 cat. diff. 620 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock 143, ice 25, bolt 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 15 7. Number of climbing hours — 44 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 1. Sitting bivouac