Ascent Certificate (First Ascent) I. Category - technically difficult ascents. 2. Region - Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol Valley, Brigantina Glacier area. 3. Route Name: To the peak Zapadny Albattros via the North face. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B cat. diff. 46 pitches. 528, p.1. From the bergschrund to the summit. 5. Elevation gain 400 m. Length - 700 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. section - 370 m. 6. On the route: ice screws - 24 rock pitons - 8 placed chocks - 6 used slings - 11

PASSPORT

I. Class: technical 27. Tian-Shan 3. Peak: Zapadny Albatros via the north wall. Category 5A difficulty, presumably the 3rd ascent. 4. Elevation gain: 550 m Route length: 740 m, average slope 60° 5. Pitons hammered: * rock - 23 * ice - 47

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Albatros Western, 4740 m, via the counterfort of the northern wall, from Brigantina glacier
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B, combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 581 m, length — 840 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 68° (from 4212 m to 4706 m). Length of sections:
   • Grade III — 420 m
   • Grade IV — 182 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Albatros Zap. (4700), via the spur on the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 180 m, average steepness — 60°, number of rock pitons hammered — 35, number of placements — 14, number of ice screws — 18
6. Number of travel hours: 15
7. One overnight stay — on the moraine of Djigit glacier
8. Team composition:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area, range — Tian Shan, Terskey Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ashutor, 4020 m, from Ashutor Pass 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B combined 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 350 m
• length of sections, difficulty category: 1 — 200 m 2 — 200 m

Ascent of Pik Blyukhera via the Northeast Face

I. CLIMBING CLASSIFICATION: Technical 2. CLIMBING REGION: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. SUMMIT: Pik Blyukhera (4720 m) via NE face 4. CLAIMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5A 4A 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: elevation gain — 600 m average steepness — 70° section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — 30 m, 2nd — 170 m, 3rd — 160 m, 4th — 250 m, 5th — 120 m, 6th — 10 m. 6. PITS SET:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Ascent Route 4. Ascent Characteristics 5. Pitons Driven: 6. Number of Movement Hours 7. Number of Overnight Stays and Their Characteristics 8. Team Name 9. Full Name of Team Leader, Participants, and Their Qualification

PASSPORT

1. Class — traverses
2. Central Tien-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Traverse of Peak Blyukhera (4720 m) — Peak Karbysheva (4700 m) with ascent through the center of the bastion
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., 2nd passage variant
5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1370 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 500 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° /14650-43001 Of which 6 cat. diff. //,-°/
6. Pitons driven:

I. Climbing category: Technical 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Pik Pamyati Blyukhera, 4720 m, via the North face and North ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 870 m, average slope 63°, average slope of the wall section 71°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 225 m 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

Ascent class Technical Ascent area Central Tian Shan Peak, its height Peak Bliukhera, 4850 m Ascent route via N face and N ridge Difficulty category 5B Height difference 750 m Average slope 65° Pitons driven:

• rock 10+3