Peak named after Viktor Kolokolnikov (4100 m)

Ascent from Ozerny glacier, route category 2A (fig. 51). The peak named after Viktor Kolokolnikov is located in the Northern (Alatas) spur. Viktor Kolokolnikov, after whom the peak is named, was one of the first climbers of Kazakhstan. He died during the Great Patriotic War. The route to the summit from the Talgar mountaineering camp begins along a steep trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge, then along the ridges of ancient moraines of Ozerny glacier to the bivouac site at the Upper training rocks. Walking time is 1–1.5 hours. From here, along the terminal moraine of Ozerny glacier (see marking) to the right lateral moraine and along it to the overnight stay on the moraine opposite a large couloir between the peaks GTO and Kolokolnikov.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent region — Zailiyskiy Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Pioner 4050 m via the left part of the southern wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference of the wall section 190, ridge section — 210 m, b) length of sections — II difficulty category — 460 m, III difficulty category — 135 m, IV difficulty category — 40 m, c) average steepness of the route — 60° 6. Number of pitons driven:

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

From the city of Almaty, drive along the highway to the "Leninets" pioneer camp. Then, proceed along the right (orographically) side of the gorge until the confluence of three rivers:

• Levyy Aksay
• Sredniy Aksay
• Pravyy Aksay It takes 4 hours from the pioneer camp. The further path lies along the valley of the Sredniy Aksay River, on the right (orographically) side, leading to a large rock fragment (big stone) lying in the river floodplain — 2 hours from the confluence of the rivers. Here is the initial bivouac. Above the parking area near the Big Stone, cross the Aksay River and begin ascending along the grassy slope in the direction of the scree. Upon reaching the level of the scree, ascend along the right edge of the scree, along the grassy slope, partially along the rocky outcrops of the slope, and ascend to the green shoulder, from which the route begins on the left.

Description of the Route of the Eastern Ridge to Peak Bogdan Khmelnitsky

R1. Ascend from the river along the grassy slope to the green shoulder.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent category — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau. 3. Peak "4012", route via the North-West ridge. 4. Estimated difficulty — 4A category. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, section length 5 — 90 m, average slope — 40°. 6. 23 rock pitons hammered in. 7. Total climbing time — 13.5 hours. 8. Number of nights — no overnight stay. 9. Group composition:

The summit of Adygenе is located in the upper reaches of the eponymous gorge on the northern slope of the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range. It is the highest point of the Dzhalamysh spur. North of the Adygenе peak in this spur stands the peak Agitatorov (1A cat. diff.); the ridge branching off from it to the east leads to the summit Elektro (1B cat. diff.). Between the peak Adygenе and the peak Elektro lies the Adygenе pass (1B cat. diff., 4030 m). To the west from the peak Adygenе a short ridge branches off. The western slopes of the summit are cut off by steep rocky walls. The northern slope is a hanging glacier flowing into the Tez-Tor glacier. The summit Adygenе is well visible from the Ala-Archa gorge and from the city of Bishkek. From here (from the north-east and from the north) it looks like an icy pyramid. From the very base of the Alplager "Ala-Archa" the peak Adygenе is a qualifying summit for beginner climbers. The path to the summit from the Alplager "Ala-Archa" lies through the Adygenе gorge. The mouth of this gorge is 900–950 m below the camp. Adygenе is a left tributary of the Ala-Archa river. On the right (orographically) side of the Adygenе gorge there is an intricate and well-trodden trail that goes through a forest of Tian Shan spruce. Then it leads climbers through a rich tall-grass meadow, some plants of which reach human height. Beyond the tall-grass meadow, the trail winds above the river at a height of about 100 m, passing through a subalpine meadow, then descends to the river a little above the confluence of the Adygenе and Tez-Tor rivers. Here the Adygenе river can be easily forded across the stones, and further on the trail goes to the end along the left bank of the Adygenе river. At the terminal moraine of the glacier there is a convenient area for a large bivouac, the so-called "Elektro" campsite. It is:

• safe,
• has a stream with clean water,
• can easily accommodate several teams.

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

85 I­20­MII
p. Manas 4307 m

I. The route is combined 2. Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Kyrgyzstan Republic 3. Peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo via the south-eastern ridge. 4. First ascent. 5. Height difference: 275 m, route length: 925 m, sections: I cat. dif. — 20 m, IV — 840 m, II cat. dif. — 40 m, II cat. dif. — 400 m. 6. Pitons used:

1 0 3 35­–45 40 III­–IV­– 16 2 0 2 65­–70 15 IV+V­– 15 2 0 4 55­–65 40 IV­–IV+ 14 1 0 3 45­–50 30 III­–IV­– 13 1 0 2 60­–65 10 IV+V­– 12 1 0 4 45­–55 40 III­–IV­– 11 2 0 8 120024,07 KT. 75­–80 30 V­–V+ 10 2 0 8 45­–60 70 III­–IV­– 9 2 0 2 70­–80 10 V+ 3 1 0 6 55­–65 30 V­– 7 0 0 3 40­–450 25 IV­– 6 0 0 4 55­–400 40 III+IV 5 1 0 8 55­–70 60 IV+,V­– 4 2 0 1 55­–600 35 IV+ 3 0 0 1 15­–250 20 II­–III 2 0 2 0 45­–500 80 III 1 KPT-113 11207914 KAT 16 N 44 Fig. 3. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (beginning).

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