REPORT

on the ascent to the peak "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge (second ascent) 4Б cat. diff., accomplished by the group of Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" Frunze, 1978.

General view of the route

BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE

Approach from the Baitor camp to the route. The route follows a not clearly defined broad counterfort. Passable ice slope 45°, 80 m. Exit into a narrow couloir, which leads to a ledge in front of a monolithic rock wall. We move left along a snow-ice slope with step cutting, piton belay. Further, two ropes of difficult rock directly upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed. Control cairn on the ledge. From the ledge upwards along difficult rocks, three ropes. Further 20 m of easy rocks, exit onto the ridge. At 20:00, we stop for the night on a rock ledge. Control cairn. Departure from the bivouac at 8:00. Along an ice slope with rock outcrops, we exit onto the main ridge. Along easy rocks, we reach a saddle. Further, one rope of snow-ice slope, one rope of rock ascent, and the ridge continues with easy rocks, steepness up to 40°. Along it, we exit onto the summit. Descent towards the Baitor pass, further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier and down to the camp.

Appendix 2

Characteristics of the route sections, part 1

Date	Section designation	Average steepness, °	Length, m	Terrain character	Difficulty	Condition	Weather conditions	Belay, rock pitons	Belay, ice pitons	Belay, bolt pitons	Passage, rocks, m	Passage, ice, m	Time of departure/arrival, climbing hours, bivouac conditions
July 26, 1977	O–1	60°	80	ice	IУ	Clean	excellent	9					Departure 14:00, Arrival – 20:00, Climbing – 8:00, Bivouac lying
	1–2	65°	80	ice	IУ	Clean		10
	2–3	85°	250	slope	УА	destroyed		26			–
average for the day	78°		410					26	20		–	2
July 27, 1977	3–4	40°	20	ice ledge	IУ	Clean	satisfactory	1					Departure – 7:00, Arrival – 20:00, Climbing – 12:00, Bivouac sitting, Convenient ledge
	4–5	90°	30	wall	VI	destroyed		2
	5–6	90°	40	internal angle	УБ	destroyed		12
	6–7	80°	40	wall	УБ	destroyed		18
	7–8	85°	40	wall	УБ	destroyed		15
	8–9	95°	5	overhanging rock	VI	monolith		17
	9–10	85°	120	wall	УА	destroyed		3
	10–11	80°	215	wall	УА	destroyed		19
average for the day	79°		510					30	1		2	7
July 28	11–12	70°	130	rocks covered with ice	УБ	destroyed	poor snow	18					Started working at 7:00, Arrival at 15:00, Climbing – 8:00, Bivouac lying
	12–13	60°	160	ice	IУ	Clean
average for the day	65°		290					18	17
Total on the wall:	76°		1210 m					159	39	9
average steepness
July 29, 1977	13–14	30°	250	ice ridge	IУ	Clean	wind, snow	1					departure at 7:30, arrival – 19:00, climbing – 10:00, bivouac lying under p. Karakolsky
	14–15	40°	85	ice slope	III	Clean		10
	15–16	85°	20	wall	УБ	rocks covered with ice		4
	16–17	20°	160	snow-ice ridge	УА	cornices		3
	17–18	85°	8	wall	УБ	monolith		6
First summit
18–19	0°		120	snow-ice ridge	УА	cornices		1
19–21	-20°		75	snow-ice ridge	УА	cornices		6

Characteristics of the route sections, part 2

Date	Section designation	Average steepness, °	Length, m	Terrain character	Difficulty	Condition	Weather conditions	Belay, rock pitons	Belay, ice pitons	Time of departure/arrival, climbing hours, bivouac conditions
July 28, 1978	O–1	45°	80	ice	III	clean	excellent	5		departure – 10:00, arrival – 20:00, bivouac lying 9 hours
	1–2	50°	80	couloir	III	destroyed	excellent	3
	2–3	75°	40	wall	IУ	monolith	excellent	2
	3–4	traverse left	40	ice slope	IУ	snow-covered	excellent	3
	4–5	75°	200	wall	IУ	destroyed	excellent	20
July 29, 1978	5–6	55°	20	wall	IУ	poor fog		1		departure – 8:00
	6–7	30°	40	rock ridge	III					arrival – 21:00
	7–8	40°	100	ice ridge	IУ	clean		3
	8–9	25°	80	rock ridge	III	destroyed
	9–10	45°	40	snow-ice slope	III	snow-covered		1
	10–11	45°	40	wall	IУ	destroyed		4
	11–12	40°	680	rock ridge	III	destroyed		2
Total on the route	Average steepness of the route 47.3°		1340 m					30	14	base camp, 13 hours of climbing

Protocol of the ascent review

July 30, 1978

review of the ascent to the summit "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge, on a route of 4Б cat. diff. in the composition:

Trempol'tsev G.I. Keleberdenko T.N. July 28–29, 1978, second ascent.

Present: Trempol'tsev G.I., Keleberdenko T.N., Viryukov V.N. — supervisor, Duiko V.I. — head of the rescue team.

Trempol'tsev G.I. We left the base camp at 6:00, approached the route at 9:30. We started the route at 10:00.

We traversed the ice slope on crampons.
We entered a couloir, where we moved with piton belay, and drove in 3 rock pitons.
Further, left along a snow-ice slope on crampons with step cutting, belay via ice pitons, exit onto rocks.
Above, 5 ropes of rock, in the middle of this section, a control cairn.
Exit onto a small ridge.

Bivouac at 20:00. We departed the bivouac at 8:00, the weather deteriorated.

Along rocks and an ice slope onto the main ridge.
Along the ridge to the summit.

We reached the summit at 15:00. Descent towards the Baitor pass and further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier.

The ascent was enjoyable, and I am satisfied with my partner.

Keleberdenko T.N. — I would like to add that the rocks are quite destroyed, and therefore it is necessary to be extremely cautious during the ascent and to climb in a group of 2–3 people. The route corresponds to 4Б cat. diff.

Viryukov V.N. — supervisor. The ascent was carried out in accordance with the rules of mountaineering in the USSR. The ascent is confirmed.

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