FIRST ASCENT PASS

1. Class — technically challenging ascents.
2. Region:
   • Tian-Shan,
   • Terskey Ala-Too ridge,
   • Kara-Kol gorge,
   • Brigantina glacier area.
3. Route name — Brigantina peak via the North-West ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
5. Height difference — 710 m, route length 980 m, average steepness 45–50°. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 40 m, 4th difficulty category — 580 m.

№ 21. DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE "BRIGANTINA" PEAK B. Bloshtein, 1966 3rd ascent via O. Trubnikova's route, 1965 5A category (according to this report) 2nd ascent - V. Osipov, 1965 (August 15-18, 1965) 1st ascent - O. Trubnikova, 1965 (August 4-6, 1965) –1966– The "Brigantina" peak (4800) is located in the main part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, 60 km south of Przhevalsk. Approach via the Kokbor valley:

• The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit "Brigantina", made by the group of the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the DSO "Zenit" led by V.P. Popov. Photo 4. The northern ridge of the summit "Brigantina". View from the upper icefall pad.

1. General description of the area

The summit Brigantina 4800 m is located in the Terskey Ala-Too range, approximately 38 km from Przhevalsk in the northeast direction. The road goes up to the first saz, from where the distance to the foot of the summit is 8-10 km by horse and foot trail. The path goes:

• Through the Karakol gorge.
• Further through the Kock-bor gorge - the right bank of the river of the same name, which is a tributary of the Karakol river.

Report

On the Traverse of Brigantina and Albatros Peaks, Carried Out by the Chelyabinsk Region Team from August 3 to 7 for the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" Championship

The peaks of Brigantina (4850 m) and Albatros (Eastern – 4800 m, Western – 4740 m) are located in the axial part of the Terskey-Alatoo ridge (see orographic scheme) and close the Kokbor valley (55 km south of the city of Przhevalsk). The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakol River (the peaks are located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kokbor River). A truck can reach 19 km up the Karakol valley, and then a good horse trail continues for another 21 km, followed by 15 km of shepherd trails to the tongue of the Brigantina glacier. Loads are transported up from the end of the motor road by shuttling. The peaks of Brigantina and Albatros, like all the surrounding peaks, are composed of granites, which are enriched with feldspars in many places. The northern slopes of Brigantina peak are an ice wall cut by two steep ridges-counterforts: the northern and northwestern ones, leading to the eastern ridge. The slopes of Albatros drop steeply to the north with ice walls having sheer cliffs in the upper part. From the Brigantina peak to the saddle, there is a snowy corniche ridge. The ridge leading to the Eastern and further to the Western peak of Albatros is a rocky saw (26 gendarmes) with numerous cornices hanging on both sides.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too.
2. p. Gastello, via the northern glacier. Summit coordinates by GPS N 42°16.605′ E078°25.304′. Route start coordinates by GPS 3853 m N 42°16.840′ E078°25.125′.
3. The route is proposed as 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice.
5. Route elevation gain — 387 m. Route length — 630 m. Section lengths:

• II — 150 m,
• III — 390 m,

First Ascent Report

November 7, 2009 To the summit of GTO South (4245 m) in the Auter gorge, Karakol area, Terskey Alatau. The route follows the northwest wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty. The first ascent was made by a group consisting of:

• Leader: Rumyantseva N.A., CMS, "Burevestnik", Voronezh
• Dubrovskikh V.V., 2nd sports category, Beloyarsk
• Dorokhov B.F., 1st sports category, Voronezh
• Ogandzhanyan Yu.A., 1st sports category, Voronezh
• Lyubavin S.E., 2nd sports category, Voronezh

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range, Karakol valley
2. Peak 20 let Latvii ~4130 m via the eastern counterfort and NE ridge
3. Proposed category of complexity: 2B. First ascent.
4. Route character — combined
5. Route elevation gain: 500 m (by altimeter)
6. Route length: 800 m
7. Used on the route: ice screws — 12, rock pitons and chocks — 0, bolt hangers — 0
8. Pitons left behind — 0
9. Team's climbing hours — 13

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent:
2. Tian Shan,
3. Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Karakol gorge
4. Peak Dementyev 4202 m via the north slope of the eastern ridge
5. Proposed 3A category of difficulty. First ascent.
6. Nature of the route — combined
7. Route elevation gain 500 m (by altimeter)
8. Route length 800 m
9. Used on the route: ice screws — 15, rock pitons and protection gear — 0, bolt hangers — 0

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, Karakol region.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes: ascent to Peak Jigit via the western ridge (5170 m).
4. Ascent description: altitude difference 1170 m, average steepness — 34°, route length — 2650 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 19, ice — 8, bolted — (dash).
6. Total climbing hours — 13.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
   • 1st — western ridge, in a "Pamirka" tent.
   • 2nd — on a plateau, in a "Pamirka" tent.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, 7.10
2. Object — Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the "sickle" of the northern wall (V. Penchuk, 1973)
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route character — combined (actually — ice and snow)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1270 m route length — 1250 m (wall section) + 550 m (ridge section) length of sections with 5th category of complexity — 1050 m average steepness of the wall section — 52°