Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Ukrainian SSR ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":555,"height":552,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r9xyHAvOvdkcYFgEnUgGJTGQdFabvpu5/img-0.jpeg","id":64763611}) Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the south face ![img-1.jpeg]({"width":682,"height":670,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/2u7knCK5FD8RbdRRywsEXZxaICkmFBhA/img-1.jpeg","id":64763612}) Kiev, 1973

I. Sports Characteristic of the Route

The object of the ascent, Peak Kommunizma, is located at the junction of the Petra Pervogo and Akademii Nauk ranges in the Central Pamir. After E. M. Abalakov's first ascent of Peak Kommunizma in 1933, a large number of new routes were laid to its summit. The area around Peak Kommunizma is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. (See "Pobezhdennye vershiny" 1968–1969.) Following the brilliant reconnaissance by V. Bozhuukov and A. Belopukhov in 1965, and the successful ascents by the groups led by E. Myslovsky and V. Onishchenko, the central part of the south face of Peak Kommunizma became one of the main challenging routes for Soviet mountaineers. Our team's acquaintance with Peak Kommunizma began in 1967 when we made the first ascent of its northeast ridge, earning the title of USSR champions. In 1972, we attempted to ascend via the center of the south face. Due to harsh weather conditions and time constraints, we were forced to descend, having reached an altitude of 6300–6400 m.

Pobeda Main 7439 m. Ascent via the NE buttress. Central Tian-Shan.

PASS

1. Category of altitude ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Zvezdochka glacier.
3. Peak Pobeda Main via NE buttress.
4. First ascent, proposed category 5B.
5. Elevation gain — 2639 m, route length — 3870 m. Length of 6A category sections — 290 m. Average steepness of the route — 44°. Average steepness of 6A category sections: 50° (5192–5264); 70° (6026–6066); 50°, 65° (6144–6240); 60° (6608–6648); 75° (6816–6834).
6. Pitons left on the route (not removed) — none. Insurance points organized on the route:

To the Chairman of the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR

Comrade Smirnov Yu.N. From the participants of the traverse of the "Choktal" massif Comrades Buryak V.N., Aksenov V.A., Lengnik O.M.

Petition

In 1962, a sports group led by Naumenko I.M. completed a traverse of the "Choktal" massif, category 5B. The group followed the route with some deviations from the original route due to the lack of a complete and detailed description. In connection with this, the group made independent decisions on the choice of path in certain sections of the traverse. The group members removed notes from all the peaks of the massif and control tours. In the group's opinion, the deviations made from the classified route do not affect its category of difficulty. When reviewing the group's traverse, the commission (chaired by Rotataev N.S.) proposed that we compile a detailed description of the route taken and consider it at the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR. In this regard, the group petitions for the classification of the route taken and consideration of the traverse results. October 20, 1962.

Championship of the Kazakh SSR

High-altitude class

II. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the north-eastern ridge of the shoulder of Peak Chapayev from the North Inylchek Glacier (first ascent)

Team 12 SCA SAVO Coach: Yuriy Mikhaylovich Moiseev Team captain: Valeriy Nikolayevich Khrshchatyy

1. 12 Sports Club of the Army, Almaty
2. Almaty, Kurmangazy St., 15, apt. 8, Khrshchatyy V. N., ph. 61-27-25 Participants: V. Khrshchatyy, Z. Aubekerov, G. Mikhaylov, A. Vasil'yev, Ye. Sedel'nikov (SCA-12) August 17-20, 1988

To the Main Judges' Panel of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North Face. Combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan Tengri peak 6995 m, from S. Inylchek glacier via the center of the N. face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
4. Route type - combined
5. Height difference of the route - 2760 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge. 3. Peak - p. 60-letiya Velikoy Oktyabrskoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii, height 4906 m, ascent route - via the eastern counterfort. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m average steepness - 75° length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 532 m. 6. Pitons driven:

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m via the chimney from bastion 3 of the ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 650 m average steepness: 80° length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories: 375 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock pitons: 20 pcs

Report

On the second ascent to the summit of Ossonali, 4855 m, category 5B, Alai ridge, Kok-Su gorge: by a team from the Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society, as a duo. July 9-11, 1978 General view of the summit.

Map scheme of the Alai ridge (Kok-Su area)

Table of main route characteristics.

"Chelyabinsk Worker" via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall cat. diff. Dzhura A.A. +2 Ims_ms@mail.ru Kichik-Alay ridge 5.1.4

Photo № 1: Peak "Chelyabinsk Worker" (taken on July 21, 2008 from the summit of p. Irbis 4200 m)

ascent route . . . . . invisible ascent route — descent route 5.1.4. Kichik-Alay ridge, Dzholdzhilga gorge. "CHELYABINSK WORKER" peak 4420 m via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall, first ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley.
3. Peak Aylama via the center of the North face.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3