ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge III. Peak — "Burevestnik" peak, 4360 m, ascent route — via the Eastern ridge IV. Estimated complexity category 4A V. Route characteristics: height difference 764 m, length of sections with 4-5 cat. diff. 295 m, average steepness 51° VI. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 31, ice — 0, bolted — 0 VII. Number of climbing hours — 12

Technical category

Report

on the ascent (first ascent) to Peak Burevestnik (4360 m) via the North-East Ridge. Terskey Ala-Too Range Team of the Kyrgyz RSS DSO "Spartak" consisting of:

1. Orlov S.T.
2. Alkov Yu.E. Frunze 1978 Map of the axial part of the Terskey Alatau Range in the upper reaches of the Jety-Oguz River.

Brief description of the approach to the route

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Peak Burevestnik, 4360 m, ascent route — via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 514 m, length of sections IV–V cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 33, ice — 2, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 14

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category - traverse
2. Ascent area: Central Tien-Shan range, Terskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge.
3. Peak, its height - traverse of peaks "Edinstvo narodov" 4840 m – 4850 m with ascent to peak 4840 m via the north face
4. Proposed category of difficulty - 5B
5. Ascent characteristics height difference 1440 m, average steepness of the face 76°, length of the difficult section of 5–6 cat. diff., 1303 m.
6. Pitons hammered rock - 186, ice - 81, for creating ITO 15
7. Number of travel hours - 38

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — snow-ice
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Baytor gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4430 (named after Keldysh) via the eastern edge
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 775 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 160 m, average steepness — 45°
6. Driven protection hooks: | Rock | 6 | | :------- | :--: |

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Keldysh Peak, 4430 m, ascent route via the North Ridge from Ayilama Pass
4. Estimated category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 766 m, length of sections with IV–V category difficulty — 660 m, average steepness 48°
6. Pitons used: rock anchors — 12, ice screws — 34, bolt anchors — 0
7. Total climbing hours — 15
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 0

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. 2nd Eastern Oguz-Bashi peak, center of the northern wall
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1500 m. Length of 5B category sections — 1200 m. Average steepness of the route (main part) 60° (3750–4600 m)
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • Rock: 5/0
   • Bolt: none
   • Chocks: 15/0

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — III-y Vostochnaya Oguz-Bashi, its height is 4960 m, ascent route — via the northern edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, length of sections 5–6 — 759 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 82, ice — 64, bolt — 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 3
7. Number of walking hours — 48
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

Report

on the ascent of Oguz-Bashi 2nd Eastern via the Northern wall, 5B category of difficulty, second ascent. Team of Tomsk Regional Sports Committee. Team captain — Sannikov Yu.V. Team coach — Dyachenko N.N. 634050, Tomsk, Herzen St. 8, Regional Sports Committee. 634055, Tomsk, 30 let Pobedy St. 3, apt. 606, Sannikov Yu.V. 634012, Tomsk, Kirova St. 61, apt. 30, Dyachenko N.N.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of snow and ice ascents.
2. Teskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge.
3. Peak 2nd Western Oguz-Bashi (5000 m) via the north wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1050 m. Length 1205 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 745 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 61°, including III category of difficulty: 95° — 5 m, 35° — 120 m.
6. 16 rock pitons hammered, 174 ice placements.
7. Team's travel time is 16 hours, 1 day.
8. ONE Overnight stay ON A ROCK-ICE PLATFORM.
9. Leader: Leontiev Vadim Gennadievich — Master of Sports.