Terskey Alatau

Mountain range18,893.26 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the peak S. Ir­senin (4240 m) in the Terskey Alatoo ridge with the main technical characteristics and the composition of the group.

  1. Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge
  2. Summit — p. S. Ir­se­nina, 4240 m, As­hu­tor 114 pass
  3. Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/х­i-83.
  4. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m. length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m. | | II | -380 | | :-: | :-: | :---: | | | III | - 215 | | | IY | — II8 |
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### Ascent Route to Tulenin Peak (4100 m) via the East Face in Tian Shan Category 5A climb description.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. 5. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,

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Description of the route 5A cat. difficulty level to the Toleni peak (4100 m) via the East face in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors 7. Travel time: 12 hours. 8. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

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Description of the 5B category route to Festivalnaya peak via the NE buttress in Terskey Ala-Too with a detailed analysis of sections and technical details.

I. Technical Category 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress 4. Proposed category: 5B 5. Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°. 6. Pitons used: rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –

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Traversing Sherkhan — Ondoo-Choku peaks in Terskey Ala-Too, category III, first ascent, route description, and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class — technical.
  2. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo.
  3. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent.
  5. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m.
  6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none.
  7. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977.
  8. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort.
  9. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.
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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Sherkhan-Yuzhny via the Northeast wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the route and recommendations.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Region — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge.
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Sherkhan Yuzhny, 4255 m, North-Eastern wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 68°, length of sections:
    • I — none,
    • II — none,
    • III — 15 m,
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Description of the first ascent to the 4310 peak via the Central North-West buttress, grade III–B in the Central Tien Shan, complexity category 3–5, elevation gain 5 km.

  1. Climbing category — technical
  2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol)
  3. Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m
  6. Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10
  7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours
  8. Team composition:
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