Terskey Alatau

The article describes logistics, infrastructure, and seasonality for climbers in Kyrgyzstan's national parks, including information on transportation, accommodation, food, and weather conditions.

Logistics How to Get There By Private Vehicle As of May 2025, entry to the national park is closed to vehicles with internal combustion engines. Entry for electric vehicles remains open and costs 800 som. There is a parking lot at the top, costing 50 som for an unlimited time. By Taxi You need to get to the entrance to the national park: . However, taxi drivers are not very fond of going there, so some minor difficulties may arise. The cost per car is around 600-800 som from the center of Bishkek. By Public Transport In May 2025, a free bus was launched. It starts from T. Usubaliev Square (often referred to as the old central square of Bishkek, near monuments and administrative buildings in the center) — a landmark in the city center. Transport Inside the National Park If you're not using a private vehicle, you need to pay 200 som per person to enter the national park. The number of days spent in the park is unlimited. Payment can be made in cash, by card, or with national QR transfers. Buses run around the clock from the entrance of the national park to the end of the road inside the park. The interval between buses is approximately every 10 minutes during the day and every 30-40 minutes at night.

Description of the first ascent to the 4310 peak via the Central North-West buttress, grade III–B in the Central Tien Shan, complexity category 3–5, elevation gain 5 km.

Climbing category — technical Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol) Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10 Number of climbing hours — 8 hours Team composition:

Description of the first ascent to the summit of Sherkhan-Yuzhny via the Northeast wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the route and recommendations.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical. Region — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge. Peak, its height and ascent route — Sherkhan Yuzhny, 4255 m, North-Eastern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 68°, length of sections: I — none, II — none, III — 15 m,

Traversing Sherkhan — Ondoo-Choku peaks in Terskey Ala-Too, category III, first ascent, route description, and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport Class — technical. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.

Description of the 5B category route to Festivalnaya peak via the NE buttress in Terskey Ala-Too with a detailed analysis of sections and technical details.

I. Technical Category Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress Proposed category: 5B Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°. Pitons used: rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –

Description of the route 5A cat. difficulty level to the Toleni peak (4100 m) via the East face in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.

Passport I. Rock class. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors Travel time: 12 hours. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

### Ascent Route to Tulenin Peak (4100 m) via the East Face in Tian Shan Category 5A climb description.

Passport I. Rock class. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,

Description of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the peak S. Ir­senin (4240 m) in the Terskey Alatoo ridge with the main technical characteristics and the composition of the group.

Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge Summit — p. S. Irsenina, 4240 m, Ashutor 114 pass Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/хi-83. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m. length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m. | | II | -380 | | :-: | :-: | :---: | | | III | - 215 | | | IY | — II8 |

Description of a combined route to Peak S. Tolenen (4240 m) via Apu-Tor Pass in the Terskey Ala-Too range of Tian Shan, with a detailed analysis of the ascent and descent paths.

TIAN-SHAN TERSKEI-ALATAU RANGE (Karakol gorge) S. Tyulenina Peak (4240 m) via Ashutor Pass The route is approximately Category 3B, combined Sitchikhin Yu.V., Ryabukhin A.G., Meshkova N.B., Karpenkov M.N., August 12, 1982 Photo 1. General view of the summit Photo 2. Fragment of the general view (bastion)

Ascent route to Tash-Tuya peak (~3900 m) in Terskey Alatoo range via Bonur pass along the Eastern ridge, category of complexity — E (Expert).

Ascent Passport Rock class. Tashtambek Gorge, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. Tash-tuya Peak (Camel), height ~3900 m, Main Peak via South Peak, with ascent to South Peak via East ridge (first ascent) Estimated difficulty category - 3B. Height difference 500 m, average steepness ~45° Pitons hammered for insurance: rock - 9, ice - none. Departure and return date: July 24, 1977.