Terskey Alatau

Mountain range18,893.26 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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First ascent description of Peak N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the north wall in the Central Tian Shan, EE difficulty grade, climbed by the Profsport-II team in 16 hours on August 12.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — ice and snow 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan; Terskey Ala-Too ridge 3. Peak named after N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the North face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B. First ascent. 5. Height difference — 830 m. Distance — 1270 m. Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 830 m. Average steepness — 43°. Steepness of the wall section — 51° 6. Pitons driven:

rock 3/0boltchocksice
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Ascent to Peak Armstrong via the North wall, category 5B difficulty, 850 m elevation gain, 1280 m length.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — snow-ice
  2. Tian-Shan, Djetyoguz gorge
  3. Peak Armstrong by the North wall
  4. Proposed 5B cat. diff. (second ascent)
  5. Elevation gain — 850 m, length 1280 m, wall — 1120 m, length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 910 m, average steepness of the main part — 52°
  6. Pitons driven: ice — 232/0
  7. Climbing hours — 10 h
  8. No overnight stay
  9. Leader — Gorbenko Mstislav Mstislavovich — Master of Sports of International Class
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First ascent via the north wall of peak Armstrong (4908 m) in Teskey Ala-Too, 5–6 cat., 848 m height difference, 1245 m length.

  1. Hiking class
  2. Terekty Apatoo, Gaumop chain
  3. p. N. Armstronga, 4908 m, via the northern wall
  4. Proposed — 5–6 cat.diff, first ascent
  5. Height difference: 848 m, length — 1245 m. Height difference of the main part (4060–4860): 800 m, length — 1085 m. Length of sections with 5 cat.diff — 885 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 52°.
  6. Protection: hook protection
    • rock cams, looped stoppers
    • 2
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First ascent of the northern wall of Peak 4700 in the Terskey Ala-Too range, Tian Shan, completed in 13 hours with 111 pitons placed.

  1. Class: ice-snow
  2. Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Peak "4700" via the center of the north face
  4. Proposed first ascent, category 5B difficulty
  5. Elevation gain — 1000 m, length — 1290 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1230 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°
  6. Pitons driven — 111: rock 45, chocks 8, ice 58
  7. Team's travel hours — 13
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Report on the ascent of the "Trud-1" team to the summit of 20AETF via the north-eastern slope in 1984 as part of the USSR Alpine Championship.

USSR CHAMPIONS IN ALPINISM 1984 SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING CLASS

Report

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF BAYTOR TO THE SUMMIT "20 YEARS OF KOMSOMOLETS OF KYRGYZSTAN" VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE NORTH FACE, 4700 m, TEAM "TRUD-1" (first ascent). COACH AND TEAM MANAGER GRISHCHENKO V.I. SENIOR COACH KENSITSKY L.V. V. Boyko, S. Belinsky, V. Gurov, V. Dobresko, V. Kulyamin. ADDRESSES: RS "Avangard" 252135, Kiev, Volodarskogo, 1, Chairman Klopov I.I. Phone 26-56-68. Coach and team manager Grishchenko Viktor Ivanovich 252055, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, kv. 46, Phone 71-08-74. The height of the summit was determined using a map. The lower altitude mark was determined using an altimeter.

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Ascent route description to Peak 4700 in Terskey Ala-Too via the right part of the North face, complexity category 5.5.

Passport

  1. Ice and snow class
  2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatoo, Jetyoguz valley
  3. p. Baitor, 4700 m, right part of the North face
  4. Proposed – 5B–6B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Height difference: 1050 m, route length – 1510 m, face – 1360 m, length of V–VI category sections – 1000 m, including 6 category – 70 m
  6. Average steepness of the main part of the route – 54°
  7. Pitons: rock – 17, ice – 247.
  8. Climbing hours – 13.5
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Description of a 5B category route through the right part of the north face of the peak 20 let Oktyabrya "Komsomolets Kirgizii" (4700 m) in Tian Shan.

PASSPORT

I. Class — ice and snow 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Baytor gorge 3. Peak "20 let gazety 'Komsomolets Kirgizii'" (4700 m) via the right part of the north face, ice and snow route 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference — 1050 m, length — 1350 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1100 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° 6. Pitons driven:

  • rock — 2
  • bolt — 0
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Description of the team's ascent to Peak **Baytor** (4700 m) via a snow-ice route, category 5B, on the north face.

Passport

  1. Ice-snow class
  2. Terskey Ala-Too, Baytor gorge
  3. Peak Baytor (4700 m), via the icy couloir of the northern wall
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty (second ascent)
  5. Elevation gain: 850 m, length — 1550 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 730 m, length — 910 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 650 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 52° (3850–4580 m).
  6. Pitons driven: | Type of pitons | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :----------: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |
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A 5B category route on the North face of Baitor peak in the Djety-Oguz gorge of Terskey-Alatoo range, first ascent by the team led by Alexander Barchuk in 1988.

Pas via CN

I. Category — snow and ice climbing. 2. Terskey-Alatoo, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak Baitor, via the icy couloir on the North Face. 4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1000 m; wall section height difference — 755 m, length — 1100 m, average steepness (laser survey) — 53°. Length of Category 5 difficulty sections — 1020 m. 6. Pitons hammered in:

rockexpansionice
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Description of the first ascent of the 20 Let Komsomola Kyrgyzстана peak via the northern wall of the western summit, ice and snow complexity category, accomplished by the Moscomsport team in 1988.

30

Passport

  1. Class — ice and snow
  2. Terskey Ala-Too, Bantor gorge
  3. Summit "20 лет газеты «Комсомолец Киргизии»" via the center of the north face of the western shoulder.
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 750 m, length — 965 m Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (3700–4450) Average steepness of the rocky part — 63° (3820–4030)
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