Central Asia

Mountain range3,552,051.21 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
5

Report on the first ascent by the ITMO team to the summit 4729 via the Western ridge of the North wall, difficulty category 2B, Pamir-Alay, Achik-Tash gorge.

Report on the First Ascent by the ITMO Sports Club Team to the Summit 4729 (Peak ITMO University — new name) via the Western Ridge of the North Wall.

Estimated difficulty 2B, Saint Petersburg, September 2017

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent Area Pamir-Alay, Achik-Tash gorge
  2. Summit 4729
  3. Route
  4. Ascent Class
  5. Height Difference:
  6. Team
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First ascent via the North Edge on Tsorupy Peak (5842 m) in the Trans-Alay Range of Pamir Mountains, 5A category of difficulty, height difference 2000 m.

  1. Class of ascent — high-altitude technical
  2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Zaalaysky Ridge
  3. Object of ascent — Peak Tsyurupa 5842 m, first ascent via the northern edge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
  5. Route characteristics: | | | | :--------------- | :---------- | | height difference | 2000 m | | average steepness | 35–40° | length of sections:
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Ascent description of Peak 5285 in the Zaalaysky Range via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 3A difficulty level, climbed by a group of alpinists led by Retvinsky P.D.

  1. Climbing category — High-Altitude Technical
  2. Climbing region — Trans-Alai Range, Dzhanam-Dartakai gorge, upper reaches of Korzhenevsky glacier.
  3. Peak 5285, First ascent (proposed name: Chelyabinsk Peak) via North-Eastern ridge. Ice and snow.
  4. Proposed category complexity — 3A.
  5. Height difference ~ 760 m, average slope ~ 36°.
  6. Pitons driven — 0.
  7. Time on the route — 11 hours.
  8. Number of overnight stays — none.
  9. Retyunsky Yuri Dmitrievich — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader
    1. Leontiev Vasily Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports
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Report on the first ascent of Peak 5965 (Leonard Euler Peak, 6022) in the Trans-Alay Range via the northwest edge and north ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of Peak 5965 (Leonard Euler Peak, 6022)

Moscow, 2013

1. Climbing Passport

Region: Zaalaysky Ridge (North Pamir). Valley: Nura. Classification table section number for 2013: 4.4. Peak name: Euler Peak. Route name: via the northwestern edge and northern ridge. Proposed category: 4A. Route type: ice and snow. Height difference: 1540 m. Route length: 3400 m. Average steepness: 27°. Hooks left on the route: 0. Hooks used on the route: ice screws - 24. Team's total climbing hours: 18 hours, 2.5 days. Team leader: Andrei Alexandrovich Lebedev (Moscow), Master of Sports of International Class in tourism. Team members:

  • Andrei Viktorovich Zharov (Moscow, Zelenograd)
  • Ivan Nikolaevich Zhdanov (Moscow)
  • Yuri Alexandrovich Maksimovich (Moscow)
  • Bogdan Dmitrievich Savchinskiy (Kiev)
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 3B on the peak Yukhin (5130 m) by the eastern ridge, Pamir, Zaalai ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina via the Eastern Ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina (5130 m) via the Eastern Ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Yukhina 5130 m. Presumed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — rocky. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Route length — 1000 m.
  2. Length of sections: I — 350 m, II — 350 m, III — 300 m.
  3. Average steepness: main part of the route — degrees.
  4. Number of "hooks" left on the route: total — 0;
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Traverse of the peaks in the western part of the Zaalai Range, cat. 5B, completed by the team of "Spartak" sports society in 1970.

TRAVERSE OF PEAKS:

  • «5100 m»
  • «5200 m»
  • «5340 m»
  • «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)»
  • «5900 m»
  • «RAZDELNAYA»
  • «LENINA 7134 m»
  • «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.
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Pamir, Zaalai Range, Musi Jililya peak, 4729 m, first ascent of route 4A-4B cat. diff., snow-ice route.

Pamir. Trans-Alai ridge. Peak Musa Dzhaliľ 4729. Assumed category 4A–4B, first ascent of the route. The character of the route is snow-ice. Route length — 1400 m. Difficulty sections:

  • Cat. 1 — 400 m
  • Cat. 2 — 100 m
  • Cat. 3 — 600 m
  • Cat. 4 — 200 m
  • Cat. 5 — 50 m
  • Cat. 5+ — 50 m Average slope of the main part — 50°. Pitons left on the route — 0. Ice screws used — 80. Total amount of technical climbing aids used — 0. Total climbing time — 6 h 30 min (1 day without overnight stay).
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Report on the first ascent of the route 4A category of complexity through the center of the North face of the Universiteta ITMO peak by the Ak-Sai Travel team.

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Universiteta ITMO via the center of the Northern wall, category 4A, by the Ak-Sai Travel team — MPEI alpine club, from 26.08.2019 to 26.08.2019

I. Ascent Passport

№ п.п.1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderMikhail Khomenyuk, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsBakytjan Nabieva, 2nd sports rank
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Report on the first ascent of the Universitetskaya ITMO peak via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3A route.

Report

On the first ascent of the route to the summit UNIVERSITET ITMO via the North-Eastern ridge — 3A category of complexity (presumably). By the team of climbers: Inozemtsev, Sokhatsky, Kurzin. For the period June 20, 2019.

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderKurzin Bogdan, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsSokhatsky Alexander 2nd sports rank, Inozemtsev Eduard 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachSuviga Vladimir Ivanovich
1.4OrganizationAsia Outdoor
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionPamir. Trans-Alai range
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Report on the first ascent via the East Ridge of Peak Lenin (7134 m) by a team from Voronezh on August 4-6, 2023, with a difficulty category of 5A.

Russian Mountaineering Championship, "High-Altitude" Class

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of LENINA (ABU ALI IBN SINA) via the Eastern ridge of Peak Kompleksny, 5A category of difficulty (tentatively), by the team from Voronezh, from August 4 to August 6, 2023.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Team Leader's Full Name, Sports RankPenyaev Ilya Nikolaevich, Master of Sports
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