Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.

Krugozor Mordy Peak — 3476 m

Ascent via the northern ridge — 2A (Description as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp:

• along the left bank of the Uzunkol River
• cross to the right bank and down it for 350 m to a wide grassy couloir (visible from the camp)
• up the couloir, to the right of the stream, to the confluence with the left wide couloir
• exit into the Kr. Mordy peak cirque On the green terraces — a bivouac. From the camp — 2 hours.

Report

on the passage of Krugozor-Myrdy, 2A cat. sl. of the Popov V.I. team

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus (from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass).
3. B. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1000 m, length — 1355 m. The average steepness of the route is 75° (see sheet 3, front side). Length of sections: 150 m — category 6, 330 m — category 5, 400 m — category 4, 210 m — category 3, 250 m — category 1.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | For belay | For creating artificial anchors | | :------------ | :------------- | :------------------------------ |

Pyramid

Ascent to the summit of Pyramid via the south-east ridge from Marda valley - 2A cat. From Uzunkol alpine camp along the trail on the right bank of the Myrdy river to the right moraine of the Myrza glacier. Along the trail, through the "ram's foreheads" and further - along the grassy slopes to "Myrdy bivouac". 3.5–4 hours from the camp. From the bivouac into a narrow steep couloir leading to the snow plateau of the Kara-Bashi and Pyramid peaks. From dropping the "ram's foreheads" on the edge, start-right-up along the snow and the beginning of a wide scree-filled couloir, going up in steps to the SE ridge. Along the couloir (in a rope team! Rocks!) exit to the ridge. From here, left along the destroyed rocks of the wide ridge (≈ 250 m) and the first gendarme (severely destroyed rocks). Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledges and further along the inner corner (15 m, piton!) with an exit to the ridge behind the gendarme. Along the rocks, approach and yellow 7 m wall, behind which along the ledges enter a 10 m chimney (piton!). The gendarme at the confluence of the SE and southern ridges is bypassed on the right along the ledges (belay). www.alpfederation.ru

Russian Mountaineering Championship High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the Southwest Wall (R. Despie, 1975) 5B category, Rocky. Team FANO

• Team Coach: Nikonov A.E. (1st sports category)
• Leader: Shurygin S.D. (1st sports category)
• Participants: Koroleva E.I. (1st sports category), Ryndyk A.P. (1st sports category)

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the 2001 classification table:

Fig. 28

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.