Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit 5368 (Peak Alexandr Gubaev)

Via the northwestern slope, category 3B difficulty Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2008

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Ridge. Valley: Kyzylsu (East Kyzylsu Glacier). Classification table section number for 2001 — 4.4
2. Summit name: 5368, proposed — Peak Alexandr Gubaev.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Zaalayskiy ridge (section 4.4 p. 13 KMGV).
2. Route: Jipak peak (4472 m), S ridge (G. Starikov, 1967).
3. Cat. difficulty: 1B rock.
4. Route characteristics: rock route.
5. Height difference of the route: 250 m.
6. Route length: 350 m.
7. Length of sections of 1st cat. difficulty: 300 m.
8. Average steepness of the main part: 40°.
9. Maximum steepness: 45°.

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP "PAMIR-79" Traverse of Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713) - Peak Lenin (7134) on July 8-14, 1979, category 5B difficulty, by a team of coaches from MAL "Pamir-79". Participants:

1. Stepanov I.E. - MS - team leader
2. Markelov V.V. - MS - participant
3. Lurye E.R. - MS - participant
4. Kalmykov S.G. - MS - participant Coach - Honored Coach of the RSFSR Ovchinnikov A.G. One of the highest peaks of the Trans-Alai range - Peak 6713 - was named Peak Dzerzhinsky in 1928 during a Soviet-German expedition led by N.P. Gorbunov. The honor of the first ascent to this peak belongs to a group consisting of E. Beletsky and I. Fedorov. In 1936, they made an assault on Peak Dzerzhinsky via Peak Razdel'naya (from Lenin Glacier) and ascended to the summit from the upper reaches of Dzerzhinsky Glacier along its eastern slope. In 1960 - the year of the 90th anniversary of V.I. Lenin's birth - two top teams completed traverses (as part of the USSR Championship) of Peak Dzerzhinsky. From August 1-12, 1960, a team from the CS "Spartak" led by V.A. Abalakov completed a traverse of:

• Razdel'naya

REPORT

on the traverse: Peak 6852 m – Lenin Peak (7134 m) – Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m) with ascent to the southwest edge of Peak 6852 m from Maly Saukdara Glacier by the group of the Turkestan Military District. (July – August 1967) From July 22 to August 9, 1967, a group from the Turkestan Military District was in the area of Lenin Peak. The group completed the traverse: Peak 6852 m – Lenin Peak – Razdelnaya Peak, making the first ascent of Peak 6852 m via the southwest edge from Maly Saukdara Glacier. Team members: leader: Popov V.I.; participants: Artyukhin S.I. – deputy leader, Zapeka V.N.

• Kondrashov I.V.
• Ilyinsky E.T.
• Toporkov A.D.
• Golodov Yu.F.
• Putintsev A.V.

ASCENT ROUTE DESCRIPTION TO PEAK KORZHENEVSKOGO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE FROM NAZAROV GLACIER 5A cat. dif. (first ascent) July 1961. Pamir

Brief geographical characteristics of the area

Peak Korzhenevskogo, 6005 m high, is located in the Trans-Alay Range. To the east of the summit is Peak Biletsky (6075 m), to the west - Peak VMF (5842 m). The northern slopes of Peak Korzhenevskogo are the sources of the Nazarov Glacier, the northeastern ones - the sources of the At-Jaylau Glacier. The southern slopes of Peaks VMF, Korzhenevskogo, and Biletsky adjoin the Uy-Su Glacier. The first ascent to Peak Korzhenevskogo was made in 1951 by a group led by Nozdryukhin V. via Peak VMF. The route was rated as 4B cat. dif. From Peak Korzhenevskogo, a long ridge extends to the northeast, covered with a powerful ice-snow cover on the northern side. Along this ridge, from July 26 to 29, 1961, participants of the high-altitude gathering of the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" made the first ascent to Peak Korzhenevskogo.

Route description

From the base camp, located 2 km from the tongue of the Korzhenevsky Glacier, the path passes along the right bank of the Dzhakay-Dartak River, then along the stone-covered glacier, sticking to its left (in the direction of travel) side.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Заалайский Ала-Тоо Valley: Кызылсу. Section number according to the 1999 classification table: 4.4
2. Peak name: п. Курумды, route name: по северному гребню
3. Proposed category: 5B cat. sl., first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2600 m (by altimeter) Route length: 7700 m. Section length:
   • V cat. sl. — — m.

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent Category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Zaalaysky Range
3. Ascent Route with Summit Elevations: Kyzyl-Ogyn 6679 m via the eastern wall
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 6679 m – 4600 m = 2080 m
   • Average slope of the Eastern wall: 55°
   • Average slope of the entire route (across the plateau): 40°
   • Length of complex sections during ascent: 2285 m
5. Pitons Used:

Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan

Report

On the ascent to

PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012

Baku, 2012

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak

Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0

CS "DSO "Zalgiris""

ASCENT TO LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE SOUTH 5A cat. sl. IN HONOR OF THE 25th ANNIVERSARY OF SOVIET LITHUANIA (report for the 1965 USSR Climbing Championship) Vilnius, 1965

II. BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LENIN PEAK REGION

Lenin Peak, with an elevation of 7134.3 m above sea level, is located in the middle part of the Trans-Alai Range and is its highest peak. The peak is connected to Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713 m) to the west and, via the Krylenko Pass (5820 m), to the ridge of Peak Edinstva (6673 m) to the east. To the south, in a spur of the Lenin Peak massif, lies the Moscow-Peking Peak (6852 m). The Lenin Glacier flows from the northern massifs of Lenin Peak. The southern slopes of the peak are drained by the glaciers:

• Big Sauk-Dara (to the east)
• Small Sauk-Dara (to the west) The elevation difference between Lenin Peak and the middle part of the Sauk-Dara Glacier is about 3000 m. The slopes of the peak are covered with glaciers and thick layers of firn snow. In some places, the slope steepness reaches 55°. The slopes are cut by crevices up to 100 m or more in depth. Snow avalanches and ice collapses are frequent. Atmospheric pressure at the summit (7134 m) is 290 mm. Lenin Peak is the third highest seven-thousander in the USSR and is quite popular among climbers due to its relatively easy access to the starting points of the ascent. Most ascents are made from the northern side, from the Lenin Glacier.