1. Climbing category — High-Altitude Technical
2. Climbing region — Trans-Alai Range, Dzhanam-Dartakai gorge, upper reaches of Korzhenevsky glacier.
3. Peak 5285, First ascent (proposed name: Chelyabinsk Peak) via North-Eastern ridge. Ice and snow.
4. Proposed category complexity — 3A.
5. Height difference ~ 760 m, average slope ~ 36°.
6. Pitons driven — 0.
7. Time on the route — 11 hours.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Retyunsky Yuri Dmitrievich — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader
   1. Leontiev Vasily Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports
   2. Ryabukhin Alexander Grigorievich — Master of Sports of the USSR
   3. Rabinovich Alexander Borisovich — Candidate Master of Sports
   4. Retyunskaya Tatyana Dmitrievna — Master of Sports of the USSR
   5. Badt Vladimir Andreevich — 1st sports category
   6. Baranovsky Evgeny Alexandrovich — 1st sports category
   7. Demin Valery Borisovich — 1st sports category
   8. Zarutsky Anatoly Grigorievich — Candidate Master of Sports
   9. Karpenkov Mikhail Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports
   10. Kolokolov Vyacheslav Ivanovich — 1st sports category
   11. Lapko Alexander Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports
   12. Misharin Vladimir Alexandrovich — 1st sports category
   13. Oleinikov Yuri Vladimirovich — 1st sports category
   14. Prakhov Anatoly Alexandrovich — 1st sports category
   15. Smirnov Mikhail Glebovich — Candidate Master of Sports
   16. Soloshenko Alexander Nikolaevich — Candidate Master of Sports
   17. Samokotin Yuri Timofeevich — Candidate Master of Sports
   18. Sibayev Mingalim Minsalimovich — Candidate Master of Sports
   19. Khandyuk Sergey Alexandrovich — 1st sports category
   20. Cherepanov Alexander Anatolyevich — Candidate Master of Sports
   21. Vrazhev Yuri Ivanovich — Candidate Master of Sports
10. Team coach — Retyunsky Yu.D.
11. Date of departure to the route — July 28, 1986 Return — July 28, 1986

Photo of the summit. (Taken from the moraine of the glacier (4590 m). Lens: Super-Takumar f=50 mm. Distance 500 m)

Brief description of the approach to the route

From the city of Osh by car along the Pamir Highway through Sary-Tash to the former outpost "Bardebe" (211 km). At a right angle to the right across the Kata-Aryk river into the "Dzhanam-Dartakai" gorge 12 km to the base camp at 3600 m.

Then along the right bank of the river (orographically) 4 hours to the camp at 4100 m ("Nagelya Hut").

Then along the northern slopes of the peaks Tankograd and Spartakiada 3 hours to the start of the route to peak 5285.

The route goes along the North-Eastern ridge.

Brief explanation of the diagram

The beginning of the route — scree slope turning into a ridge 600 m, 30°. Then:

• snow and ice ridge ≈ 100 m of ice, slope 30°;
• then along the snowy ridge with alternating belay through an ice axe 500 m, 35°, under ice slopes 50 m long, 50°, belay — ice screws;
• then along the snowy ridge 100 m, 35°, under a rocky outcrop, which is bypassed on the right along an ice slope 100 m, 40°, alternating belay;
• exit to the summit plateau and then to the summit 200 m, simultaneous movement, 15°.

The summit is not clearly defined, a snowy dome.

Route diagram

Profile of the route (~4625 m).