Central Asia

Essentially a first ascent. Rather than following the ridge through bergschrunds, we kept significantly to the right, almost hugging the rocks. The crux was an 8-meter ice wall at about 80°.

Ice section length: 680 m Ice slope angle: 55–60 degrees 80 m traverse across a snow slope, then a couloir with broken terrain 120 m long, angle 40–50 degrees. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is heavily broken and protection is unreliable. In winter the couloir is filled with snow - deep trail breaking uphill. Then turn left onto rock. Grade III rock 90 m, angle 50–60 degrees. Protection on passive gear, belay stations on ledges. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is broken. Move from the couloir right to left in the direction of the summit. Descent via rappel bolts to the upper snowfield of the Korona Glacier, below the bergschrund, and then on foot to the Korona hut.

The route starts from the upper cushion of the Uchitel glacier along the north face of Semenova Tian-Shanskogo peak to the right of the icefall. There are quite large ice crevasses on the approach to the bergschrund. From the bergschrund, the first 4.5 pitches are easy 55-degree ice until reaching a large ice ledge. From the ledge, another 5 pitches of the same ice lead to a small ledge before the rock section. The final part of the route begins along a 20 m rock couloir and then exits left onto a rock ridge. In the couloir and on the ridge, the terrain is heavily broken, the steepness is 40–50 degrees, Grade III rock (5b fr), protection using natural features. The section length is 80 m. Descent from the route, depending on conditions, is either via 3A Erapunova or via the ascent route.

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey: Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week. Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees. Work on the route

Weather in Ala Archa National Park by month: temperature, stability, precipitation, and safety recommendations for climbers.

People often ask about the weather in Ala-Archa, when the best season is, and when it's safe to ice climb. I've decided to put this information into a micro-article. January Stable weather, many sunny days, often calm. The temperature at Ratschek hut is -10 to -20°C with rare deviations from this range. However, there's only 2 hours of sunlight per day, not enough to warm up. February Almost like January, but towards the end of the month, stability is lost – March is approaching. March Very unstable weather. Stormy winds can last for 2 consecutive days, and fog can hang for 2 weeks. Heavy snowfalls are rare but possible. On good days, even in early March, it's sometimes possible to walk in a T-shirt when the sun is out. Daytime temperatures range from -10 to +5°C. April The same March winds, but it gets warmer. May

Opportunities for solo ascents of unclimbed peaks in Nepal, permit regulations, and new summits open to alpinism in 2024.

A query from a reader (ExplorersWeb's reader — editor's note) planning a trip to Upper Mustang drew our attention to the hurdles independent climbers face when planning their Himalayan projects, especially solo ascents or attempts on unclimbed peaks in restricted areas. We reached out to a Nepalese tour operator for clarification on obtaining such permits. Q&A \ Matt Powell from the US asked: I was hoping you could provide me with some clarification regarding Nepal's rules for solo climbers, particularly in restricted areas such as Upper Mustang and the Nar Phu valley. Is it possible for a single climber (myself) to obtain a permit to climb a peak in a restricted area if I use the services of a Nepalese guide? And if so, how do I go about it? Dawa Stephen Sherpa clarified that it is possible. However, he added, the climber must obtain the permit through a registered and certified trekking agency in Nepal. The main question, however, lies in what permits the climber needs and what are the requirements for each. It turns out that it depends on the height of the peak and involves various permits and procedures. Expedition Peaks Peaks above 6,500 m are considered expedition peaks and require a permit and the presence of a sirdar/guide and liaison officer on the expedition, increasing the cost. Permits for these peaks are issued by the Department of Tourism, under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation of Nepal. Once the climber has paid for the permit, the agency receives a letter from the Department of Tourism, which must be presented to the immigration department, issuing a second permit: the Restricted Area Permit (RAP). This allows the climber to enter the restricted zone at no additional cost, since they have already paid for the climbing permit.

Sasha Moroz shares his experience on the trek to Mera Peak and the summit ascent, and talks about his further plans to climb the west face.

In a beautiful video, Sasha Moroz describes his impressions of Nepal, and also talks in detail about the trek to Mera Peak via the pass , and the ascent to the summit. Further plans include climbing via the American Direct route on the west wall. Source: Moroz Mountains, Alexandr Moroz - Mountain Guide | Moroz Mountains

Nepal introduces new rules for climbing Everest: climbers must first ascend a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal to prevent inexperienced climbers from attempting the ascent.

New Everest Climbing Regulations: Climbing a 7,000-meter Peak in Nepal First is Now Mandatory Nepal's National Assembly has passed a new tourism bill that requires climbers to first ascend a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal before tackling Everest. This new regulation aims to deter inexperienced or unprepared climbers from attempting the mountain and to develop the expedition business in the country. Every year, new regulations are proposed for trekking and mountaineering in Nepal, and now they are on the verge of becoming national law. The requirement for climbers to have prior experience ascending a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal before attempting Everest is the most notable innovation. According to officials, this provision is designed to curb the growing number of inexperienced climbers attempting the world's highest peak, which often leads to congestion, accidents, and strain on rescue services. Nepal has 86 peaks between 7,000 and 7,999 meters, and the climbing fee for foreigners ranges from $500 to $800 during the spring season. Some of the rules outlined in the bill have also featured in other recent ordinances, such as the requirement to provide a recent medical certificate to obtain a climbing permit. The bill also lays the groundwork for a general environmental fund that will collect money from climbers.

### Everest Statistics as of December 2025 - **Total Ascents:** 13,737 - **Total Deaths:** 339 - Notable trends include a steady **increase in climbers** and **fatalities** - The role of **supplemental oxygen** and **Sherpa support** is significant.

Overall Statistics (as of December 2025) As of December 2025, there have been 13,737 summits of Everest, corresponding to a 43% success rate. Of those who reached the summit, 7,563 different people have stood on the top. 339 people have died on all routes. Nepal remains the more popular and more deadly side. 9,887 summits and 229 deaths were recorded on the Nepalese side, corresponding to a death rate of approximately 2.3%. On the Tibetan side, there were 3,850 summits and 110 deaths, a death rate of 2.8%. The use of supplemental oxygen remains one of the strongest predictors of survival. 180 of the 339 deaths occurred among climbers ascending without supplemental oxygen. Tibet or Nepal? The Nepalese side remains the most popular route and has recorded the highest absolute number of fatalities. The Tibetan side has recorded a slightly higher percentage of deaths — 2.8%, but a comparable normalized mortality rate — 1.05. Deaths Rise with the Number of Climbers Since 2000, Everest has experienced an unprecedented influx of climbers. 15,781 people climbed above Base Camp in Nepal from 2000 to 2025, nearly triple the total number for the previous 80 years. Throughout Everest's history (1921–2025), 339 people have died on the mountain. The average number of deaths increased to approximately seven deaths per year from 2010 to 2025. Standard Routes — 98% vs. Non-Standard Routes — 2%