Central Asia

Mountain range3,552,051.21 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Traverse of [Чильман](#) and [Индивичвумчорр](#) mountains in [Хибины](#) range, completed in March 1999, category 8.6.2, 21 km, 5 days, description of the route and climbing conditions.

Chil'mana – Individvumchorr, traverse, Turchaninov I.V., 1999, Khibiny, 8.6.2.

Passport

  1. Small mountains. Technical class.
  2. Khibiny. Western part.
  3. Traverse: Chil'mana Mt. (824 m) – Yumechorr Mt. (1097 m) – Fersmana Mt. (1179 m) – Yudychvumchorr Mt. (1200 m) – Chasnachorr Mt. (1189 m) – Individvumchorr Mt. (1078 m).
  4. First ascent. Presumably 3A category of difficulty, combined, between November 1 and May 31.
  5. Total route length – 21 km. Length of sections: 2B category of difficulty – 1800 m, 3B category of difficulty – 205 m.
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Route passport to the summit of *Sainte-Exupery* (2680 m) in the *Fitz Roy* massif, Patagonia, climbed via the north ridge and east face in 1996.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia).
  3. Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face.
  4. Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17
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Report on the ascent made by the team from the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing to Talai Sagar peak (6,904 m) via the buttress of the North face.

2016 Russian Mountaineering Championship

High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation team to Thalay Sagar (6904 m) Via the counterfort of the North Face, "Moveable Feast" — first ascent, approximately 6B category difficulty. Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova Team leader: S.A. Nilov

Thalay Sagar (6904 m) via the counterfort of the North Face "Moveable Feast"

Ascent Details

  1. Ascent category: high altitude
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First ascent of the north wall of Talai Sagar peak (6904 m) in the Indian Himalayas, cat. 6B, 1480 m height difference, 12 days on the route.

Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal.
  3. Thalay Sagar peak (6904 m), via the center of the northern wall (“High Voltage”).
  4. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain — 1480 m, total route length — 1815 m, including 1325 m of wall climbing. Length of sections by category of difficulty:
  • 5th category — 305 m.
  • 6th category — 920 m. Average steepness:
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**2021 Russian Alpinism Championship: First Ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov via South Face "Impromptu" Route, Category 5B**

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021

Altitude Class

Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021

Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu"

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team LeaderNilov S. A. (MS)
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Description of the ascent to Sarykuyakudzi peak (6220) via the eastern ridge in the Kongur Muztagh range in Chinese Pamir, with a complexity category of 5A, completed in 2007.

11.3.16

1. Ascent Passport

  1. Area: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kengsuvar Section number according to the 2001 classification table – 11.3
  2. Peak name: Sarykayakudji. Route name: Via the Eastern Ridge
  3. Category of difficulty – proposed 5A.
  4. Route type: ice and snow.
  5. Height difference of the route: 828 m (according to GPS readings).
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Report on the first ascent of the route "Think Twice" on the Central Buttress of the NE wall of Muztagh Tower (7273 m) in Karakoram, made by the team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing in 2012.

Russian Alpinism Championship 2012. High-altitude ascents class

Ascent Report

of the Moscow Alpine and Climbing Federation team to Muztagh-Tower (7273 m) via the Central Buttress of the Northeast Face, "Think Twice" route — first ascent, approximately 6B category of difficulty Dedicated to the memory of Pavel Kozek, who perished on the slopes of Muztagh-Tower on August 25, 2008 Senior coach: S. Kotachkov, team leader: S. Nilov Moscow 2012

Ascent Passport

  1. Karakoram, Pakistan — section 10.2 according to KMGV 2008
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Report on the first ascent of Mузтаг-Ата via the South Ridge, category 5B.

Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Report

On the first ascent to Muztag-Ata (7546) via the south ridge

Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2005

1. Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kalaxung, classification table section number for 2001 — 11.3
  2. Peak name: Muztag-Ata. Route name: via the south ridge from Kalaxung Glacier.
  3. Proposed category: 5B.
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Ascent description of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) summit via the southern ridge in 2005, complexity category 5B, snow and ice route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table.
  2. Peak name: Muztag Ata, 7546 m, route: via the South Ridge.
  3. Proposed category: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route type: ice and snow.
  5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1450 m. Route length: approximately 3200 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 20 m. Average slope:
    • main part of the route – approximately 45°,
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Description of the ascent via an alpinist route of the 5A category of difficulty via the northwestern ridge of the Mutztag Ata peak (Kunlun Mountains, China) in 2004.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
  2. Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
  3. Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route character: snow-ice
  5. Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
  6. Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route:
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