Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

1987 RSFSR Alpine Championship

High-altitude Climbing Category

Ir. 576 p. 9 dated 6.10.87 2nd ascent of V. Smirnov route, 6th category of difficulty PEAK AKHMAI DONISH 6666 m The photo contains a report from Smirnov's institute, but it was not provided to the team. Recorded with counter-V. Approved for the ascent of Peak Akhmad Donish via the South Face (№ 4.1.5 according to KTMGV) by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee. Second ascent. Team Leader

Description

First ascent of Peak 5731 from the Bivachny Glacier by participants of the Pamir expedition of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society August 4–7, 1967 Leader — V. Rudenya, coach — I. Polevoy. Participants:

• S. Slenzak
• V. Golub
• I. Batmanova
• V. Yefimov
• D. Kamayev
• A. Karatsuba

4.1.19

Report

OF THE TEAM OF THE UNION OF SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS OF UZBEKISTAN ON THE ASCENT TO PIK IZVESTIYA 6840 m, MADE IN THE SUMMER SPORTS SEASON OF 1964. Tashkent – 1964

Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Pik Izvestiya Area

Pik Izvestiya (6840 m) is located in the heart of the Pamir Mountains, near the highest peak in the USSR — Pik Kommunizma — in the Petra I ridge. To the south of the peak lies a spur of the Petra I ridge, approximately 5 km long, featuring three six-thousander peaks:

• Ordzhonikidze 6280 m

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) via the northwest edge, accomplished from August 3 to 16, 1972, during the USSR Armed Forces Championship in mountaineering. Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko Range, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences Range near Peak Garmo. To the north and northwest, the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier adjoin the base of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, while its southern slopes feed the right tributary of the Geographical Society Glacier. The eastern and northeastern slopes contribute to the formation of the twin-headed Koma-Akademii Glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko Glacier near a high-altitude weather station. The first ascent to the South Summit of Peak Koma-Akademii was made via the northeast face in 1965 by a team from the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the Uzbek SSR, led by A. P'yankov. In 1971, a team from the USSR Armed Forces mountaineering training camp, led by A. Bitny, repeated the ascent, reaching the north summit via the south summit and the southeast face. During the 1972 season, the base camp for the USSR Armed Forces mountaineers was established on July 25, 85 km from the town of Vanch, near the Geographical Society Glacier, at an altitude of 2600 m. The area of the planned ascents was well-studied during the 1971 USSR Armed Forces training camp, allowing all participants to immediately begin training climbs in the high-altitude zone. From July 27 to 31, all team members:

• participated in setting up assault camps #1 and #2;
• conducted thorough reconnaissance and reviewed the planned ascent routes;
• made necessary supplies of food and equipment;
• underwent active acclimatization at altitudes of 4200–5000 m.

I. High-altitude class. 2. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. 3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the northern route through p. 6950 m (Borodkin) 4. Difficulty category — 5A 5. Elevation gain: 3300 m average slope of the route 40° section lengths:

• R2 — 1200 m
• R3 — 4000 m
• R4 — 600 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — High-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — East ridge of Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m
4. Ascent description: height difference 2895 m, average slope 40°, complex section length — 277 m
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none
6. Total climbing hours — 28 h 30 min
7. Number of bivouacs and their description — six: during ascent — on 4600 m № 1, on 5900 m № 2, on 6400 m № 3, on 6900 m № 4; during descent — on 6900 m № 4, on 5600 m № 5. All bivouacs were lying down and comfortable.

Altai Regional Alpine Federation

For the Championship of the Soviet Union in the class of high-altitude ascents.

Report

on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 meters) via the counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier (sixth category of difficulty) Barnaul, 1969

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

In the center of the North-Western Pamir, at the junction of two ridges – Peter the First and Academy of Sciences, on the territory of the Tajik SSR is located the highest peak of the Soviet Union – Peak Kommunizma. The area of Peak Kommunizma, which has a height of 7495 meters above sea level, is the most elevated part of the Pamir. The snow line in this area is at an altitude of 4000–4300 m. The sharply continental climate creates favorable conditions for the formation of ice, which covers the slopes of the ridges, peaks, and, sliding down from them, accumulates in the valleys. For example, glaciers:

• Fedchenko
• Garmo
• Gando

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP “PAMIR”

REPORT

On the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma

VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE SPUR FROM BEYLYAEV GLACIER

Category of Difficulty: 6th cat.

Team Members:

• STUDENIN B.A.
• KOROVKIN O.A.
• MEDVEDEV V.M.
• CHERNY N.D.

REPORT

on the Dykhtau – Koshtan traverse of 6A category of complexity by the team from St. Petersburg from 30.08.2020 to 5.09.2020 2020

I. Climbing Report