LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE NORTH VIA THE SPUR FROM LIPKINA PEAK. Moscow – 1967

II. Preparation and Organization of the Ascent

In the autumn of 1966, the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association decided to conduct a complex high-altitude expedition to the Pamir using collective travel vouchers. A coaching council was formed, consisting of Honored Master of Sports Ovchinnikov A.G., Master of Sports Bozhukov, and Honored Coach of the RSFSR Radel V.A. The head of the organizational committee was Master of Sports Galkin V.T., under whose leadership the preparations for the expedition were carried out. Training sessions were conducted according to a plan developed by the coaching council, three times a week, at the sports complexes:

• Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU)
• Moscow State University (MSU)
• Tsaritsyno
• Khimki.

PLATEAU 6100 NORTHERN SLOPE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE OF PEAK LENIN

Climbing Description

The ascent route follows the path to Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rock.

Day 1

From the base camp at 3600 m, the path goes through pastures and "Onion Glade" to the foot of "Tent Rock." Then, through a lateral gorge, it follows a trail that leads to a saddle in the ridge named "Travelers' Pass." From "Travelers' Pass," the trail initially descends and then traverses to the right across talus slopes, crosses a canyon, and bypasses a standalone rock on the left. Upon reaching the glacier, a zone of lateral crevasses is encountered. The ice is heavily covered with debris. The path up the glacier towards Lipkin Rock initially follows its middle part and then, bypassing the icefall on the right, moves to the right orographic moraine, which is a chain of black hills of talus material extending from the foot of Lipkin Rock. The glacier in its upper part is closed, requiring travel in ropes. At the moraine near the foot of Lipkin Rock, there is a large area suitable for overnight stays, a common stop for many expeditions heading to Peak Lenin from the north. The height of this location is 4200 m. There is water available, and many areas for tents. The journey from the "Vysochnik" alpine camp to the 4200 m overnight stay took 6 hours. We take a one-hour rest to prepare hot food. We bypass Lipkin Rock on the right and, entering a wide snowy couloir, ascend through the snow, cutting steps, to the ridge of Lipkin Rock, marked in descriptions as 5200 m. The ascent to Lipkin Rock from 4200 m took 2 hours. On the ridge, there are many cleared areas for tents, and on the snowy plateau to the left of the ridge, water can be uncovered under the snow. On a terrace below the ridge, the remains of Lipkin's plane are visible.

Report

On ascending Lenin Peak via the Southwest Ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley. First ascent - approximately Category 5B difficulty. Climbing category — high-altitude. Team leader: Yushin N.P. Coach: Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K. Moscow, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru www.alpfederation.ru

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Range (North Pamir). Gorge: Sauksay Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.4
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: along the rib of the southern edge of the southeastern wall from the Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier.
3. Proposed – 5B category of difficulty.
4. Route type: snow-ice.
5. Height difference of the route: 1709 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3911 m.

Report

On the ascent of the MAI Climbing Club team

to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent) from August 31 to September 2, 2012 Captain: A. Lebedev, Coach: A. Lebedev Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent)

Passport

1. Region: Trans-Alay Range (Pamir) Valley: Malaya Saukdara, category according to the 2011 classifier — 4.4
2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak (7134 m)

REPORT

On Ascent to Lenin Peak 7134 m via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest (First Ascent of the Route)

1. ASCENT DETAILS

1. Region: Zaalaysky Range (Pamir). Valley: Malaya Saukdara. Section number according to the classification table – 4.4
2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak. Name of the route: via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest.
3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
5. Height difference on the route: 1134 m (by GPS).

Climbing Report: Lenin Peak (7134) via the West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara Glacier

1. Climbing Passport

Region: Trans-Alay Range (North Pamir). Valley: Sauksay. Classification category according to the 2013 table – 4.4. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: via the West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara Glacier. Proposed category – 5A. Route type: ice and snow. Route elevation gain: 2360 m (by altimeter). Team's total climbing hours: 24 hours, 3 days. Team leader: Andrei Alexandrovich Lebedev (Moscow), Master of Sports of International Class in Tourism. Team members:

• Alexei Alexandrovich Vorobyev (Podolsk)
• Andrei Viktorovich Zharov (Moscow, Zelenograd)
• Ivan Nikolaevich Zhdanov (Moscow)
• Bogdan Dmitrievich Savchinskiy (Kiev)
• Alexei Sergeevich Timoshenkov (Moscow, Zelenograd)

Recreational Climbing in Achik-Tash. Peak Musa Dzhalil via the North Face.

Alpinism, Report, Pamir By khomenyuk, Today at 15:07 On August 31, 2017, we successfully completed a first ascent via the north face of Peak Musa Dzhalil (4800 m, according to the classifier). From the Ak-Sai Travel base camp in Achik-Tash, we reached the summit and returned in ten and a half hours. We thoroughly enjoyed the route. In anticipation of the new season, I'm sharing a detailed description of the route.

Ascent Details

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash valley, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Peak Musa Dzhalil, 4800 m, via the North face.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

1. General Information

"APPROVED" Head of the 4th Department of the Turkestan Military District, Lieutenant Colonel (Yas'kov) "10" October 1954 DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST TRAVERSE OF THE LENIN PEAK MASSIF (7134 m). The first high-altitude traverse of the Lenin Peak massif was carried out by a group of climbers from the Turkestan Military District and the Uzbek Committee of Physical Culture, consisting of V. A. Kovalev (leader of the traverse), E. I. Nagel, and V. N. Naryshkin (all - TurkVO), P. M. Karpov, and V. K. Nozdryukhin (Committee of Physical Culture and Sports of the Uzbek SSR) over 7 days, from August 28 to September 3, 1954. The traverse of a seven-thousand-meter peak was first undertaken and accomplished by Soviet climbers. From the summit of Lenin Peak, a note from the 1950 ascenders - a team of climbers from the TurkVO - and a broken plaster bust of V. I. Lenin, wrapped in a red flannel shirt, left on the summit by the 1934 ascenders, were retrieved.

Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Pamir, West Zaalai.
3. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height 5900 m.
5. Height difference 1650 m.
6. Travel time - 3 days ascent, 1 day descent.
7. Bratkov Yu.N., 6GU, 4th with elements of 5th GR, leader, Belov A.A., 4th with elements of 5th GU, Kondratiev V.L., 5GU, Roshchin P.A., el. 5GU.
8. August 1995.
9. The ascent was made as part of a sports mountain trip.