Description of the Climbing Route through the Center of the Western Peak

① Numbering of the sections on the Varzob Saw wall (first ascent)

Control Cairns

to the Western peak, category 4A

The approach to the start of the route is similar to the approach to the category 4B traverse route, ascending the ridge along the same wall. Overnight stay on the saddle below the wall.

SECTION I.

Through the largest right couloir with scree, exiting onto the saddle, we reach its upper end, bounded by sheer walls. To the left, a small waterfall flows in spring and early summer.

Simultaneous movement, the route length is approximately 100 m. At the end, the group ropes up.

SECTION 2.

The start of the route is along the left (in the direction of travel) counterfort of the waterfall. The lower part with a negative slope is traversed with the help of a team member standing on their shoulders.

Further along the counterfort:

• approximately 60°,
• then about 45° on moderately difficult rock,
• one 40 m rope to a ledge where the group can be received.

Protection is with pitons, 2–1 pitons.

Further:

• transitioning from the counterfort to a narrow couloir, approximately 45–50°, through it and its left rocky side, we exit onto the saddle of a gendarme (one rope).

At the end of the couloir:

• we pass under a large boulder - a "cork",
• and exit onto a good ledge - a platform.

Protection is on outcrops.

SECTION 3.

From the platform, the path goes straight up. Initially, an internal corner with an overhang in the upper part, approximately 10 m long. It is difficult to exit to its right side at the top, from under the overhang. Further straight up, on moderately difficult rock, we exit onto a small (one meter) ledge - a platform. The route length is approximately 40 m. Protection is with pitons, 4–5 pitons.

After the corner, the rock is heavily damaged; beware of falling stones from above.

SECTION 4.

Straight up, very steep, heavily glaciated rock, gradually becoming weakly overhanging. On the left side, on sheer rock but with good holds, approximately 10 m up, we exit under an overhang, to a dried-up juniper tree. Traversing right along a narrow ledge with an overhang, widening at the end (length approximately 4–5 m), we approach the junction of the walls.

Further:

• Up and left is a chimney (2–3 m), transitioning into a monolithic, steep (approximately 50–55°), strongly inclined ledge (approximately 10 m).
• The ledge is traversed by jamming into the crack at the junction of hands and partially legs.
• Further along a more gentle ledge (approximately 10–15 m), we exit to a place where a team member can be received.

Climbing is difficult. Due to the large number of turns, rope jamming is possible. Protection is with pitons, 3–4 pitons, one ice axe. Section length is 50–60 m. At the end of the section - a control cairn.

SECTION 5.

Along a gentle ledge, approximately 20 m to the left, we approach the start of the second wide ledge, going steeply up to the left. The ledge narrows significantly at the end and gradually disappears on the smooth, sheer, and overhanging wall. Having traversed along it approximately 20 m and not reaching the end by approximately 5–6 m, we receive the group. Protection is on outcrops; climbing is not difficult.

SECTION 6.

At the start of the section, there are pieces of heavily damaged rock, detached from the wall; further, a sheer wall leads under an overhang. Section length is approximately 10 m.

Climbing is straight up, difficult, but there is nowhere to place pitons, except at the very end, under the overhang.

There is no place to receive a team member.

SECTION 7.

The most difficult part of the route. From the piton hammered at the end of the wall, left and down, along a strongly inclined, steep (60°) ledge with an overhang and above the overhang, we descend to its end (2–3 m); from here, up along a weakly overhanging wall (2–3 m) - pulling up on small holds, we exit onto a platform where a control cairn is built. On the ledge, there is a risk of being thrown off; on the wall and on the ledge, it is not possible to hammer in a piton. Climbing is very complex.

SECTION 8.

On moderately difficult rock, straight up, further on easy terrain, approximately 80 m, we exit under the Western peak. Protection is on outcrops.

Descent from the peak is via the category 2A route.

The first ascent was made in June 1965 by a group consisting of:

• Shramko A.
• Tkachev V.
• Filippov A.
• Shchebitchenko V.

Required equipment:

• 60 m ropes,
• Rock pitons - 16 pieces,
• Ice pitons - 1–2 pieces,
• Boots - "Vibram" is mandatory.

The total ascent time is 12 hours.

The proposed difficulty rating is category 4A.

VARZOB SAW Western wall of the Western peak www.alpfederation.ru↗