Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route

The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse.

Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers.

The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge.

The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side.

Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory).

The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

• initially to the left,
• then to the right of the ridge line.

On the peak, there is a large surveyors' cairn. The climbers' cairn is 1–1.5 m to the NW of it.

The descent is made via the same route as the ascent.

Time calculation:

• motor road, bridge — stream source: 3.5–4.5 hours,
• stream source — saddle: 1.5–2 hours,
• saddle — peak: 1–1.5 hours,
• peak — motor road: 4–5 hours.

COMPILED BY
V. MASHKOV.