Climbing class — rock climbing
Region — Gissar Range, Varzobskoy Pily area
Peak, height, route — North-Eastern peak of Varzobskoy Pily via the chimney of the southern wall
Suggested difficulty category — 4B
Route characteristics:
- Height difference of the wall section — 500 m
- Total height difference — 600 m
- Average steepness of the wall section — 75°
- Number of rock pitons driven — 20 pcs.
- Number of protection placements — 79 pcs.
- Duration — 13 hours
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — none
Surname, Name, Patronymic of the leader and participants, their qualification:
- Baykovskiy Yu.V. — Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category
- Sidorchuk V. — 1st class разряд
Team coach: Lavrukhin V.I. — Master of Sports, 1st category
The ascent was made on September 17, 1989.
The ascent was organized by the Climbing Section of the State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR
DUSHANBE 1989
General view of the peak (photo taken from the west)
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to the North-Eastern peak of Varzobskoy Pily
Route in UIAA symbols
Description of the route to the North-Eastern peak of Varzobskoy Pily via the chimney of the Southern wall
The approach to the bivouac starts at the 59th km of the Varzob highway. From the highway, head towards Varzobskoy Pily along a dirt road for 1.5-2 hours. The road leads to abandoned mines. There are convenient places for a bivouac near the mines, and water is available.
From the bivouac, return along the road for 150 m and, traversing the slope, reach a stream. Follow the stream bed, or in spring, its right side, for 300 m until a fork. The fork is located 150 m below the rock walls of the north-eastern spur of Varzobskoy Pily. From the fork, follow the left tributary along simple rock slabs for 150 m to the start of the route. The approach to the start of the route from the bivouac takes 1-1.5 hours.
The route follows a distinct chimney on the southern wall. It is visible from the Varzob highway and remains in sight throughout the approach. The North-Eastern peak of Varzobskoy Pily is clearly visible from the Varzob highway. This peak is separated from the Eastern peak by a distinct saddle. The North-Eastern peak has a shoulder that drops off steeply to the north-east. Further along the ridge (crest) of Varzobskoy Pily, a saddle is visible 600-700 m away, which should be descended into after completing the ascent and bypassing the North-Eastern peak from the north.
Parallel to the chimney, to its right, runs another distinct crack. The chimney is steep throughout. On approach, it appears as a wide crack cutting through the entire southern wall. However, upon closer inspection, the chimney reveals a diverse micro-relief. The route is logical and safe. It is flanked on both sides by monolithic steep walls, making it impossible to bypass the key sections.
From the summit:
- Descend towards the Eastern peak to the talus slopes and then to the glacier;
- Down the glacier for 300-400 m and traverse right-up to reach a saddle in the northern ridge of the Varzobskoy Pily massif;
- Without losing height, reach a saddle in the north-eastern ridge of the Varzobskoy Pily massif;
- Then down along a trail on the road to the bivouac.
The descent from the summit to the bivouac takes 1.5 hours.
The route corresponds to a difficulty category of 4B. It is recommended for well-prepared sports groups.
Section R0–R1. The route begins on monolithic rocks bounded on the right and above by a cornice. On the left, the rocks are limited by "sheep's foreheads." Climb the rocks to a ledge, bypassing the cornice.
Section R1–R2. Follow the ledge to the start of a wide chimney.
Section R2–R3. The chimney has several branches; always follow the main right one. Branches leading left exit onto sheer walls. Pass through the chimney for 10 m and exit under a нависающая (overhanging) wall on the left.
Section R3–R4. The нависание (overhang) is bypassed on the right along a complex monolithic wall. It is also possible to pass through the нависание as there is a crack, but pitons do not fit well in it. This section is key.
Section R4–R6. Follow an internal corner for 15 m. Exit onto a ledge and traverse it for 5 m to reach a wall with numerous cracks. This is a good place to organize a belay. (1st control point).
Section R6–R7. The wall on the left is limited by an overhang. Climb straight up the wall for 20 m. The most challenging part is 10 m from the belay point, requiring artificial climbing techniques. This is the most difficult section of the entire route.
Section R7–R8. After the wall, move left-up through a crack. The upper part has a convenient belay spot.
Section R8–R10. The crack leads into a chimney. Climb through the chimney (in a stem) for 15 m under a cornice. The cornice is passed on the right along a wall for 10 m.
Section R10–R11. Climb through the chimney for 30 m; the upper part has a plug.
Section R11–R13. The chimney leads under a cornice. Pass it on the right along a wall for 10 m. Then, through the chimney with a plug, exit under cornices. Organize a belay point here. The rocks are fragile; only protection placements can be used.
Section R13–R16. From the belay point, climb 3 m up under a cornice. Continuing up the chimney is dangerous due to very steep and fragile rocks. From the cornice, head right along a complex monolithic ledge for 10 m. The second control point is left here. The ledge leads to a crack, which is climbed using free climbing techniques. (Difficult).
Climb a wall with numerous ledges back into the chimney. In the chimney, under a plug, is a convenient spot for a belay point.
Section R16–R19. Climb through the chimney for 90 m to exit onto a saddle. The chimney is bounded on the right by a wall and on the left by "sheep's foreheads." The chimney has plugs, which are the most challenging to pass.
Section R19–R20. From the saddle, climb using one rope over fragile rocks to the summit.
From the summit, descend to the glacier and then to the bivouac. The ascent takes 12-13 hours.