47. Varzobskaya Pila ridge traverse (all summits except Western summit), category 3B route, fig. 26.

From the bivouac by the lake, ascend into the upper reaches of the stream and to the right up grassy slopes to the col between the Western summit and the main ridge of Varzobskaya Pila. In the upper part, the ascent to the col goes across rocks via ledges and gullies exiting onto the right part of the col. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours.

From the col, to the right below the gendarme wall. Ascend the gendarme on its right side for 60 m. Piton belay. Follow an easy, gently-sloping, stepped ridge to the top of the gendarme. Cairn. Descend from the gendarme down a steep 40-m gully onto the col. Possible snow cornices.

The next gendarme is sharp-topped, red-colored. Follow the ridge upwards for 30–40 m to a talus-covered area from which, on the right, bypass the gendarme ridge along a wide ledge. The ledge is 10–15 m below the ridge of the gendarme.

From the ledge, cross a small gendarme, and traverse a degraded ridge to the next col. To the next gendarme, ascend on the right up a slab with a ledge. The top of the gendarme is a gently sloping ridge. Descend to the col via a gully or ledges.

Fig. 26. To ascend to the summit — the highest point of the ridge — follow moderately difficult rocks. To descend from the summit, follow the degraded ridge. Bypass gendarmes on the left by descending steeply down a gully on the north side and then continue along ledges and moderately difficult rocks on the northern slope of the ridge. Exit onto the ridge near a tall gendarme which will be followed by a sharp depression in the ridge. Down the degraded ridge to the east, bypassing gendarmes on the left. From the last gendarme, lower by rope and then descend down and left across a steep snowpatch leaving the ridge.

Cross the north-eastern ridge to the right into a "window." Further to the right, traversing snowy slopes, exit into a low point on the eastern ridge and descend grassy slopes to the road by the Varzob river.

Varzobskaya Pila ridge traverse takes 10–12 hours.