Ascent Log

(third ascent) I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir, Fann Mountains 3. Maria peak via North counterfort of the 3rd ridge (4970 m) 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1670 m, length of 5–6 km/tr. sections — 795 m, average steepness — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical

2. Ascent area, ridge: 5.3. Zaravshan Ridge

3. Peak, its name, height, ascent route: p. Maria (4970 m)

Via the northern counterfort of the western ridge

4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B, second ascent

5. Route characteristics: height difference 1670 m

Length of sections 5–6 km (traverse 795 m) Average steepness: 65°

6. Pitons driven: for belay:

Ascent to Peak "Maria" - 4970 m, 5B-6B cat. diff.

For the 1970 CS DSO "Spartak" mountaineering championship via the right ridge. The Spartak Tashobl Soviet DSO mountaineering section's training camp took place from June 23 to July 22 in the northwestern part of the Fann Mountains. Ku likalon Valley, 1970. In 1969, a group of GDR mountaineers led by Karl Hentz climbed Peak Maria via the northern ridge and then traversed Peak Mirali, rating this traverse as a climb of the highest difficulty category. The Tashobl Soviet DSO "Spartak" team followed the Leningrad climbers on the N-NE wall. During pre-season preparations, the group couldn't find a description of the route and only received verbal consultations from eyewitnesses of the ascent. Thus, the ascent was not much different from a first ascent.

VIII. Organization and Tactical Plan of the Ascent

By July 2, the team completed a training and reconnaissance climb on Peaks "Svobodnoy Korei" (3B cat. diff.) and "Severny" (4A cat. diff.), both with predominantly rocky routes.

I. The ascent category is technical. 2. The ascent area is the Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. 3. The peak, its height, and the ascent route are

• Peak MARIIA, 4970 m, via the northeast edge, category 5B difficulty, 3rd ascent of the route.

4. Route characteristics: height difference — 1460 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1425 m, average steepness of the route — 60°, average steepness of the most difficult sections — 80–90°.
5. Pitons driven: rock pitons — 89, including 5 for creating intermediate belay points; chock stones — 65, including 4 for creating intermediate belay points; ice screws — 32.
6. Time taken to reach the summit — 25 hours.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

V. Maria, 5B, via North face of the West ridge (route by Yu. Baychenko, 73)

Ascent Record

Ascent class — technical. Ascent area — Zaravshan range, Fann Mountains. Peak Maria, via N wall of the 3rd ridge, 4757 m. Estimated difficulty category – 6B. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 2050 m
• Including most difficult sections — 935 m.
• Average steepness: overall — 79°.

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ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Chanskye Mountains, West Fansky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Mariya, 4790 m, via the "sickle" on the N wall of the 3rd ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B (2nd passage of the route)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 640 m

71. ASCENT TO MARIA PEAK VIA NORTH-NORTHEAST FACE First Ascent Approximately 5B category of difficulty Route climbed by a combined team of LOS SDSO "Burevestnik" Zhitenev FAN MOUNTAINS 1968 3. ASCENT ROUTE TO NORTH-NORTHEAST FACE OF MARIA PEAK

4. First Belt of Maria Peak

Mt. Maria, 5B, via North-Eastern Ridge (A. Vakhmenin's route, 78)

Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via north-eastern ridge, 5B category of complexity, 3rd ascent of the route. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1460 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1425 m
• Average steepness of the route — 60°
• Average steepness of the most complex sections — 80–90° Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belaying | ITO |

IX Climbing Record

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Fann Mountains range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Maria 4970 m via the left part of the northeast wall
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1210 m, total 1870 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 945 m Average steepness 78°
6. Number of driven pitons: for rock insurance — 252, ice — 12, bolted — 1; for creating and organizing rock — 24, ice — 12, bolted —
7. Number of travel hours — 57.5 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — three bivouacs on the wall; of these: one semi-reclined, two — sitting

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peaks MARIIA (4970 m), MIRALI (5120 m), PROMEZHUTOCHNAYA (4810 m), ADAMTASH (4700 m), traverse with ascent to peak MARIIA via NW buttress, 2nd passage of the route.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total elevation gain — about 2600 m. Elevation gain on peak Mariya via NW buttress — 1250 m, including 700 m of wall. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 500 m. Average steepness of the entire route — 45°.