Description of the Ascent to Peak "Mayakovsky" via the Northwest Wall (Upper Section)

A group from the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of:

• REZNIK V. P.
• SHKLYAR G. Z.
• SAVIN V. I.
• PETRASHKO G. A. Led by (signature) Alma-Ata 1962 Peak "Mayakovsky" is located in one of the ridges of the Trans-Ili Alatau range. It is situated in the cirque of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, from which the Malaya Almaatinka river originates.

North­ern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right part of the West Ridge Category III difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the West Ridge
3. Proposed: Category 3A

4.2.154

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free. One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:

• Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
• Be aware of loose rocks.
• In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left. The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pioneer, 4050 m, via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) wall height difference — 275 m; b) section lengths: 2 — 30 m; 3 — 445 m; 4 — 115 m; 5 — 92 m; c) average wall steepness — 68°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating intermediate belays, rock pitons — 33, bolt pitons — 4, chocks — 6.
7. Total climbing hours — 7 h 20 min.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1: Class of ascent — combined 2: Region of ascent — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak Sportivnaya, height 4000 m, western ridge 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 3B 5. Characteristics of the route:

• height difference — 700 m.
• length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 20 m.
• average steepness — 40°

6. Pitons driven:

II Δ ⊂ Π ∘ P T

I. The route is rock climbing 2. Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too 3. Peak Bokc, center of the eastern wall 4. First ascent 5. Height difference: 840 m, route length: 1780 m sections:

• I cat. diff. — 80 m
• II cat. diff. — 140 m
• III cat. diff. — 480 m

I. Climbing category­­ — first ascent 2. Climbing area­­ — Kyrgyzsky ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak "Klov" (tentative name) 3920 m via N ridge, route type­­ — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty­­ — 3A 5. Route description: height difference­­ — 2 km, length of sections 3­­–4 km, cat. diff.­­ — 240 m, average steepness­­ — 45° 6. Pitons driven: - rock­­ — 14 - chocks­­ — 11/2 - ice­­ — 0 7. Total climbing hours­­ — 8 h

I. The route is rock. 2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too. 3. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north. 4. First ascent. 5. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m. section

• 4 cat. diff. — 20 m.
• 3 cat. diff. — 200 m.
• 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.

1.9 Peak Ratseka via the Northwest Ridge, 2B

Name in the classifier: "via the NW ridge" Hardware requirements:

• Crampons
• Set of stoppers
• Rock pitons
• 4-6 quickdraws
• 14-16 carabiners
• 3-4 slings Maximum height: 3930 m

Fig. 17