74
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area, ridge: Chanskye Mountains, West Fansky ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Mariya, 4790 m, via the "sickle" on the N wall of the 3rd ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5B (2nd passage of the route)
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 640 m average steepness — 65°
- Pitons hammered:
| Rock | Ice | Bolt | |
|---|---|---|---|
| a) for belay | 109 | 8 | 9 |
| b) for I.T.O. | — | — | — |
- Number of climbing hours — 26.5 hours.
- Number of nights — 2, conditions good.
- Participants:
| Khura B.P. | — CMS — team leader |
|---|---|
| Lovchev E.M. | — CMS. |
| Petukhov L.M. | — CMS. |
| Ustinovich V.V. | — 1st sports category |
- Team coach: Lozovsky L.P., MS.
- Date of departure on the route — July 15, 1979 Date of return — July 17, 1979
Route of the first ascenders in 1973. Route of the 1979 group, 2nd passage of the route. — Overnight stay location Route on the N buttress of the 3rd ridge (Mumdzhi route) Route on the N wall of the 3rd ridge (Bakhynko route) General view photo.
TABLE of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak Mariya via the "sickle" on the N wall of the 3rd ridge, 5B category (2nd passage of the 1973 route)
| Date | Designation | Average steepness | Length in meters | Relief character | Difficulty | State | Weather conditions | Rock | Ice | Bolt |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 15.07.1979 | R0–R1 | 60° | 80 m | shelf, wall | 4 | monolith | good | 6 | — | — |
| R1–R2 | 60° | 40 m | the same | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R2–R3 | 40° | 40 m | — | 3 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R3–R4 | 70° | 40 m | wall | 5 | destroyed | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R4–R5 | 80° | 40 m | wall | 5 | monolith | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R5–R6 | 80° | 40 m | shelf, wall | 4 | destroyed | — | — | — | — | |
| R6–R7 | 50° | 160 m | the same | 3 | — | — | 2 | — | — | |
| R7–R8 | 50° | 40 m | — | 4 | — | — | 2 | — | — | |
| R8–R9 | 50° | 40 m | — | 4 | — | — | 2 | — | — | |
| R9–R10 | 40° | 20 m | — | 3 | monolith | — | 2 | — | — | |
| R10–R11 | 60° | 20 m | wall | 5 | — | — | 2 | — | — | |
| R11–R12 | 60° | 20 m | — | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R12–R13 | 80° | 40 m | — | 5 | — | — | — | — | — | |
| R13–R14 | 60° | 60 m | — | 4 | — | — | — | — | — | |
| R14–R15 | 60° | 60 m | shelf, wall | 4 | icy | — | — | — | 2 | |
| R15–R16 | 60° | 40 m | wall | 4 | — | — | 3 | — | — | |
| R16–R17 | 70° | 40 m | — | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R17–R18 | 70° | 40 m | — | 5 | monolith | — | — | — | — | |
| 15.07.1979 | R18–R19 | 80° | 40 m | wall | 5 | monolith | good | 4 | — | 2 |
| R19–R20 | 80° | 40 m | — | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | 1 | |
| R20–R21 | 80° | 40 m | — | 5 | — | — | 5 | — | 2 | |
| R21–R22 | 60° | 40 m | — | 5 | — | — | 3 | — | 2 | |
| R22–R23 | 50° | 40 m | — | 4 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R23–R24 | 40° | 40 m | — | 3 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R24–R25 | 40° | 40 m | shelves | 3 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R25–R26 | 40° | 40 m | couloir | 4 | — | — | 4 | — | — |
Departure time from the overnight stay location was 7:30. Rest stop from 11:00 to 12:00. Total climbing hours for the day — 13 hours. Overnight stay conditions were good.
| Date | Designation | Average steepness | Length in meters | Relief character | Difficulty | State | Weather conditions | Rock | Ice | Bolt |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16.07.1979 | R26–R27 | 70° | 40 m | couloir | 5 | destroyed | good | 4 | — | — |
| R27–R28 | 70° | 40 m | inner corner | 5 | monolith | — | 5 | — | — | |
| R28–R29 | 60° | 30 m | wall, shelf | 4 | — | — | 3 | — | — | |
| R29–R30 | 50° | 40 m | wall, icy | 4 | — | — | 3 | — | — | |
| R30–R31 | 70° | 40 m | wall | 5 | — | — | 3 | — | 1 | |
| R31–R32 | 60° | 40 m | shelves, walls | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R32–R33 | 60° | 40 m | the same | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R33–R34 | 40° | 40 m | — | 5 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R34–R35 | 30° | 40 m | shelves | 3 | water | — | 2 | — | — | |
| R35–R36 | 30° | 40 m | — | 3 | — | — | 2 | — | 1 | |
| R36–R37 | 50° | 120 m | ice | 4 | — | — | — | 2 | — | |
| 16.07.1979 | R37–R38 | 30° | 20 m | snow | 2 | — | good | — | — | — |
| R38–R39 | 40° | 100 m | ice | 4 | — | — | 4 | — | — | |
| R39–R40 | — | — | West ridge of peak Mariya | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Departure time from the overnight stay location was 8:30. Rest stop from 14:00 to 14:30. Total climbing hours for the day — 11 hours 30 minutes. Overnight stay conditions were good.
Route description
(Explanation for the table of main route characteristics)
The first two ropes — traverse zigzag to the right, and then left along inclined shelves and rocks with a sufficient number of ledges and footholds (R0–R1), exit to a shelf under an overhanging wet section of the wall, approximately 5 m. Traverse left 10 m, crossing a wide steep chimney, entering a second small chimney with a plug, which leads to the wall, then a 10 m wall with a small number of footholds (R1–R2). Further general direction upwards-left towards the main couloir, almost a chimney, which cuts through the lower part of the wall from the glacier to the "nose" — a large block, above which the rocky relief of block type turns into a wall with a relief of "sheep's foreheads" type (R2–R3; R9–R10), then along the right part of the couloir to the "nose" (R11–R12, R13–R14). Rocks of block type, climbing of medium difficulty, but there are very difficult vertical sections 5–7 m long (R3–R4, R4–R5, R11–R12, R12–R13, R13–R14). After exiting onto the "nose" rock, along the icy inclined relief, we move under the wall having a relief of "sheep's foreheads" type (R14–R15). Their surface is as if compressed from quartzite tiles 3–5 cm and larger, laid "tile-like" (such relief makes up the entire upper part of the wall). The general direction of movement is upwards, with small zigzags left-right, towards a large monolith at the base of the pre-summit sheer wall. Climbing with minimal footholds, on friction (very psychologically tense), there are almost no cracks for pitons, so we have to use bolts for belay (R15–R16, R25–R26). Overnight stay on a shelf under a rocky monolith. Then 40 m along the couloir (R26–R27), traverse right 20 m and up along the inner corner 20 m (R27–R28). Further left upwards along the rocks ("sheep's foreheads") 6 ropes (R28–R29, R33–R34) under the base of the ice dome. Then traverse left 80 m along very wet, scree-covered shelves (R34–R35, R35–R36) and exit onto ice and the snowy ridge of peak Mariya. Descent via the 4B category route.
Photo of the route profile. Invisible part of the route.
