5.3.73 78

USSR Championship in Traverse Class

Report

on the traverse of Maria Peak (4970 m) — Mirali (5180 m) — Chimtarga (5487 m) — Energiya (5105 m) with ascent to Maria Peak via the northwest wall by the team from the Belarus Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports

Route Description

July 21–22 The entire group with observers gathered under the wall. The Lozovsky–Nogotov team started processing the route. They fixed two ropes. The group departed at 5:30 AM. Within half an hour, they crossed the glacier and approached the rope. The first two ropes traverse zigzagging to the right, then to the left along a crevice through steep, smooth rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" (0–1), and lead to a ledge under an overhanging wet section of the wall, approximately 5 m, with a crack. The first climber goes without a backpack; the rest follow on jumar ascenders for 40 m along the wall (1–3). Backpacks are pulled up. Those who wish can ascend with their backpacks on jumar ascenders. They completed this section by 10:00 AM. Ahead, a wide, inclined, wet chimney is visible. They bypass it on the left (3–4) and enter a second, smaller chimney with a plug (not visible from below), which leads out onto the wall. Again, very difficult climbing: Lozovsky goes without a backpack; the others follow on jumar ascenders with their backpacks; a couple of backpacks are pulled up (4–5). The general direction of movement is up and to the left towards the main couloir, almost a chimney, which bisects the lower half of the wall from the glacier to the "nose" — a large block in that part of the wall where a gentler section is discernible. The rocks are blocky; climbing is of medium difficulty, but there are very difficult vertical sections 5–7 m long (5–6).

1.14

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Zarafshan ridge, Fann Mountains (northern part). 3. Mirali peak, 5120 m, via the north face. 4. Proposed: category 6B, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain — 1540 m, length — 1800 m (3500–5040). Length of sections with category 5–6B difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74° (3500–5040). Average steepness of the main sections:

• 75° (3500–4340)

V. Paykhamber, 3B, via Western ridge (A. Lopatko route, '73)

Night stay — at Murtnые lakes or 1 hour higher on the moraines of Lake Paykhamber (there is water), opposite v. Fagitor. From Murtnые lakes, left of v. Fagitor to l. Paykhamber and along it to the snowy saddle between v. Chinal and the 1st gendarme of the western ridge of Paykhamber. Climb the snowy slope (bergschrund!) to the saddle. From Murtnые lakes, 2–2.5 hours. The 1st gendarme is passed on the left via a narrow rock ledge 30 m, then up a steep, crumbling wall 5 m — exit to the ridge and further along the ridge. 2nd gendarme — left along rock ledges on a steep wall, with some overhangs (60 m). 3rd gendarme — to the right of the saddle along an indistinct internal corner 20 m and further along the ridge to the next saddle. 4th gendarme — to the right of the saddle along poorly defined rock ledges 40 m, then traverse to the crevice between the ridge and a rocky spur with a large overhanging rock. Here is a ledge for descent 30 m to a wide, scree-covered saddle between the 4th and 5th gendarmes. From the saddle, traverse the scree slopes to the ridge leading from the 5th gendarme to the "Nizhny" pass on the south side of the Paykhamber ridge. From this lateral ridge, ascend to the main ridge via a scree gully and then along a scree slope — to the saddle between the 5th and 6th gendarmes. Here is a control cairn. From the start of the ascent along the ridge — 4 hours. 6th gendarme — to the right along a vaguely defined internal corner 30 m, then along rock ledges to small walls, up and to the right onto the ridge and then to the saddle before the 7th gendarme. From the control cairn — 1.5–2 hours. 7th gendarme — from the saddle, up and to the right along a steep wall 30 m, into a narrow chimney 5 m (clearly visible). After the chimney, up and to the left along a ledge 10 m, then 10 m up, along a ledge to the right 40 m and 20 m up a crevice.

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains.
3. Summit Zamok via the center of the north face of Parandas shoulder, combined.
4. Complexity category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. sl. — 950 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the shoulder 80°.
6. Number of pitons: rock — 82/12 ice — 2/0 protection — 68/8 bolts — 0

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Zamok 5070 m. Ascent route via the center of the northern wall of the Parandas bastion.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain – 1500 m. Length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. – 390 m (5 diff. cat.), 340 m (6 diff. cat.). Average steepness of the wall section – 73° (from 3600 to 4200 m).
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Report

Team of the Odessa Alpine Club on the ascent of Parandas Peak (4250 m) via the right part of the North face (first ascent) Fann Mountains, August 2005 Odessa – 2005

Ascent Details

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), 5.3.1
2. Parandas Peak, via the right part of the North face.
3. Proposed – 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route height difference: 750 m (3500–4250)

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains — northern part
3. Peak: Zamok (via Arandas), V. Arkhipov's route
4. Climbing category: 6A
5. Elevation gain: 600 m, including 600 m of wall climbing Total route length: 850 m, including:
   • category 5 difficulty — 375 m
   • category 6 difficulty — 250 m Average route steepness — 75°

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Ridge.
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall "bastion".
4. 6A category difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1270 m, length — 1930 m. Length of 6A category difficulty sections — 256 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (p. Parandas) — 76.
6. Use of protection points: | rock pitons | bolt hangers | chocks | ice screws |

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
3. p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
4. cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
5. Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Shan mountains, Zeravshan ridge
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall of Parandas shoulder
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 876 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 76° (3800–4380), including:

• 6 cat. diff. 86° (3960–4060)
• 85° (4080–4165)