Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Report

on the ascent made by the team of a/c "Odessa" to the summit of Parandas via the right part of the North face — first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Zeravshan range. Fan Mountains. March 5, 1988
2. Mt. Parandas 4250 m
3. First ascent via the right part of N face 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 850 m Route length: 1370 m. Section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Zeravshan ridge, Fann Mountains. 5.3.1
2. v. Parandas 4250 m via the center of the North face
3. First ascent, proposed 6A category of complexity
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference: 850 m, wall part 780 m.
6. Route length 1280 m, main part 890 m. Sections of 6th category 470 m. Sections of 5th category 180 m. Average steepness of the wall part 80°.

v. Politekhnik, 3B, via North Ridge (V. Vydrik route, 71)

Ascent Record

Ascent class: rock Region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route description:

• elevation gain — 700 m; © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin» © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin»

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

v. Polytechnik, 4B, left buttress of the Northwest wall (B. Borisov's route, 78)

Climbing Passport

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Polytechnik (4400 m), via the North ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 700 m;

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTICAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

MT POLITEKHNIK, 4B, 2ND LEFT BUTTRESS OF NORTHWEST FACE (V. DARUGA ROUTE, 79)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

Ascent class: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: height difference – 700 m;

1

(1) 1111 Presvotoputochny via the north-eastern ridge 35 hrs. cat. 4045.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Rudaki, 4400 m, via the East wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Pitons used: rock — 32, bolt — 0, chocks — 31.
6. Climbing hours — 15, days — 1.
7. Leader — RAIL GALEEV — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: ALEXANDER MIROSHKIN — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR TELITCYNS — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR RUSINOV — 1st sports category.
8. Coach — EVGENY MIROSHKIN.

Уuivarsi (37002) 2А cat. sl. from the north. From Kulision lakes at Bakhaz to Kulision plateau. bivouac on the way to the base of a clearly expressed ridge.

• The initial slope is not very steep, 15 m, gradient 30°.
• Further, according to the snow level, to the zone of rocky outcrops, moving through a couloir.
• The third section is a rocky slope 20 m, gradient 40°.
• Further, along the snow slope, the ascent becomes steeper and, moving with an ice axe, not particularly difficult.
• The final slope is steep, with an ice axe, not very difficult.
• From the top, a bay is visible, surrounded by surrounding shores. Descent from the top to the east along the glacier for 1.5 km and further down to Kulision lakes with basic precautions. The ascent takes 4–5 hours, descent — 1 hour.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — V. SARYSHKH, 4650 m, via the northern wall of the eastern ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 650 m, wall section elevation gain — 375 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 280 m, average slope of the entire route — 40°, average slope of the wall section — 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 48, for creating anchor points — 1. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics — 1, safe, convenient, on a rocky ridge.