Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technical.
2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Zamok Peak. H = 5,070 m. Via the E counterfort of the NNE wall. 2nd ascent.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, average steepness - 60–70°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO a) rock - 86 13 b) ice - — —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok, 5070 m, via the Eastern counterfort of the NNE wall, third ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: route length: 1100 m, height difference: 900 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections: fifth category – 280 m, sixth category – 35 m
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 106, ice 2, bolt 1 (used someone else's)
7. Number of climbing hours: 18 hours, climbing days – two
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak — Zamok, 5070 m
4. Route name — via the E counterfort of the NNE wall.
5. Difficulty category — 5B, presumed.
6. Height difference — 9000 m, approximately.
7. Average steepness — 65–70°.
8. Pitons driven rock — 103 ice — 13

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. V. Zamok, 5070 m, via the center of the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, route length — 1646 m, including wall section — 886 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 586 m, including sections with 6 cat. diff. — 268 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Eastern Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path from the wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m Total route length — 1675 m Length of sections with IV–VI complexity category — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Region: Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via Central Wall 4. Presumed Difficulty Category: 5B, first ascent 5. Route Characteristics: total height difference 860 m, average steepness 64°, including technical sections 76°, route length 1215 m, and sections with technical difficulty (m) 1 — 300, 2 — 30, 3 — 150, 4 — 250, 5 — 372, 6 — 113 6. Pitons Driven: for protection, removable + закладки 134, ice screw

V. Zamok, 5B, via the shortest path up the NNE wall (A. Plotnikov's route, 82)

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai. Eastern Fan Mountains, Zamok peak (5070 m) — via the shortest path up the NNE wall
3. Proposed complexity category — 5B
4. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m. Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with V–VI category difficulty — 690 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°
5. Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belay | ITO |

Fann Mountains

Ascent to v. Zamok via NNE wall (first ascent - approximately 5B category)

1970

Technical photograph of the route

The Zamok peak is located in the Eastern Fann Range in the north-west of Tajikistan. Climbers usually approach the peak from the Alauddin Lakes area. This is one of the most beautiful places in the USSR, frequently visited by tourists. A large number of objects interesting for mountaineering and stable good weather attract climbers. In the summer season of 1970, base camps of climbers from Moscow, Leningrad, Kiev, Dubna, and Ivano-Frankivsk were set up near a large lake. Climbers usually get to the Alauddin Lakes from Dushanbe by car. The car goes through the Anzob Pass to the Pasrud village (sometimes a more powerful car can make it further 1.5-2 km to the Mayguzor village). If necessary, they stop at the Varzob alpine camp on the way. From there, they take a mule trail (about 25 km) up the Pasrud and Chapdara rivers to the lakes. The total travel time is:

• 8-9 hours by car
• 5-7 hours on foot or by mule

ASCENSION DOCUMENT

1. Class of ascension: technical
2. Area of ascension: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via N.N.E. wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B rated, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference 1230 m, average steepness of the route 71°, including technical parts 78°, route length 1868 m and sections of cat. diff. (m): 1 — 130, 2 — 160, 3 — 120,

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, East Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path on the NNE wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67° 6. Pitons used:

• Rock pitons: III/5
• Bolt pitons: 2