64. Nauka from the North (or South), Category 2B Climbing Route, Fig. 34

This description is for traversing the Nauka peak from south to north. Fig. 34. From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque. Ascend from the glacier to the southern saddle of the peak. The ascent to the saddle goes up a snowy slope, with a bergschrund at its lower part. On the saddle, there is a sharp gendarme; pass it on the left. From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks. Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m). From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform. From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder. Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit. Next:

• From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks.
• Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m).
• From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform.
• From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder.
• Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.

Description of the Traverse of "Nauka" Peak (36 kg)

Cat. difficulty: 3A "Nauka" Peak (3800 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Sangalyt River tributaries. From the base camp, located on the medial moraine of the Avicenna Glacier, the group ascends to the glacier plateau and approaches the "Pyati" Pass. The "Pyati" Pass is situated in the ridge between the peaks:

• "Kruglaya"
• "Kharkov" The ascent to the pass follows a steep snowy slope, 70–80 m long. By the end of summer, the slope may be intersected by a bergschrund. The descent from the pass goes down a gentle, fine scree slope, followed by an exit onto the northern glacier descending from the "Piramid" peaks. Crossing the glacier, the group arrives under the col between "Nauka" Peak and its southern ridge. On the col, a gendarme resembling a sharp finger is clearly visible. The ascent to the col is done on crampons up a snow-ice slope with a 45° incline. The exit onto the col is rocky, to the left of the gendarme. The further ascent to the summit from the col follows difficult rock climbing. The group traverses the following sections:

Peak NEVEZUCHAYA from the East

2A – complexity category Peak NEVEZUCHAЯA is located near Tajikskiye Igizaki. The approaches are similar to those for p. SHIROKAYA. Night stay

• in the gorge of the M. Igizak river
• at the mountain pasture at the exit from it. Ascent to the base of the rocks along the grassy slopes of the eastern ridge. Along easy rocks, directly along the ridge or slightly to the left of it, we approach the rocky belt, 20 m. The belt is traversed on the right along the continuation of the ridge via a chimney-cleft (20 m) with an exit to a good platform. Further, the path also follows the ridge along easy rocks, leading to the 1st summit. Descending from it to the saddle along easy rocks, we reach the 2nd summit. The summits are of equal height, around 3700 m.

Moscow Regional Council

of the Voluntary Sports Society "TRUD"

Description

Ascent to the summit of Odessa via the Odessa pass Category III complexity MOSCOW 1963 Mt. Odessa Map of the Siama region

Peak October from SE

2A — difficulty cat. Peak October is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit is 4100 m. It is the most beautiful summit in the area, having a pyramid shape and dropping off with sheer walls towards the Maihura River. Approaches and overnight stops are similar to those for the Shirokaya and Nevezuchaya peaks. The ascent to the summit begins from a col on its SE ridge at a height of 3500 m. The ascent to the col, clearly visible from below, goes along a steep scree, местами cemented, and grassy slopes. From the col, we approach the rocks and, bypassing them on the right along a ledge (about 30 m) above the sheer walls towards Maihura, we come to the beginning of a small couloir dropping off with walls. Crossing the couloir from left to right upwards, we come to its upper part, representing a chimney with a plug at the top. Having ascended the chimney to the plug (3–4 m), we go to the right onto the ridge and along it — to the summit. The rocks are easy, passed partly simultaneously, partly with occasional belays on выступы, friable. Descent from the summit: continuing the traverse along the western ridge (about 10–15 m), we descend to a narrow friable ledge and along it about 30–40 m to the beginning of a cleft turning into a couloir, along which we descend to the start of the ascent. Further — descent to the valley along any couloir. The first ascent was made on November 7, 1962. Time taken from overnight stop to overnight stop at the mouth of r. T. Igizak is 12 hours.

44. Peak Panoramnyi from the south, route 2A cat. difficulty, fig. 23 (Romashevsky I. with a group - 1955) From the "Tajikskie Igizaki" bivouac, head up the gorge along the trail for about an hour. Then turn right into a side gorge with a canyon, and go up (possible snow) for 3 hours to a saddle on the southern ridge of the summit. From the saddle, follow a grassy slope with small scree to the left, heading towards the rock gate in the black rocks. Then enter the gate, and bypassing the rocks on the left, follow a couloir with small scree and rocks to reach a sharp ridge. Continue along the ridge to the saddle. Belay. From the saddle, follow the summit ridge, which is heavily broken and consists of jagged rocks and needles, to the summit. Traveling along the ridge takes 2 hours. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

Description of the Traverse of the "Piramida" Peak

2B category of difficulty Departure from the base camp, located in the Avicenna cirque, to the middle moraine at 6 am. Ascent up the snowy plateau to the "Okno" pass, then left to the saddle between the 2nd and 3rd (farthest) gendarmes. Exit to the saddle on snow and rock ledges. Then we come out to a small gentle snowy plateau (on the east side of the ridge), cross it to the left and approach the ledges to the right of the visible crevice from the plateau. Further: – On the ledges to the left, we approach the beginning of a 10 m high wall with good protrusions and holds (protection to the right of the crevice through a protrusion). – Further ascent goes up a vertical (70°) crevice with a small number of holds (hook protection required), 30 m. – Continue ascent along the ridge upwards.

Sangal'tskiy Zub. From the North

Description of the ascent via route 2A cat. sl.

I. Approaches.

The approaches are the same as those to the peak Avangard, Kopandor.

II. Ascent.

A wide gorge branches off to the right (in the direction of travel) from the overnight stay site. In 40–50 minutes, Sangal'tskiy Zub becomes visible on the right. The ascent to the northern ridge is possible via any of the counterforts — grassy slopes, easy rocks. The actual ascent to the ridge is possible depending on the state of the slope:

• directly up the easy rocks;
• or initially to the saddle in the right part of the ridge. The ridge is wide, the rocks are easy, with several low (10–15 m) gendarmes, which are ascended directly (rocks of medium difficulty). Belays are made to projections.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): Gissar Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sangi-Navishta, 3980 m via the eastern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 600 m average steepness: 55° section lengths: 180 m, 280 m, 370 m, 480 m, 540 m, 6... m.

Description

Traverse of the "Seraia" peak 3900 m above sea level

The "Seraia" peak is located in the Southern spurs of the Gissar ridge to the north of Dushanbe city. The ridge of "Seraia" stretches from west to east for a length of 3.5–4 km. The ridge has a remarkably distinctive character in its structure. Being on the same ridge as the "Yakum" peak, which consists of pure granites, the ridge of "Seraia" consists of marbleized limestone, which greatly complicates the organization of piton belay. The ridge consists of three peaks: the Main (or Western) peak (which is the highest), the Middle peak, conditionally called the "Main Gendarme", and the Eastern peak, named by the first ascenders, army climbers, as "Chortov palets" (Devil's Finger). The approaches to the ridge of "Seraia" are most conveniently made from the "Varzob" alpine camp along the Salo-Rabot river valley. After two fifty-minute transitions, we reach the first large right tributary and start ascending up along its left bank, following the trail. The trail leads to the ridge, which leads to the Yakum peak. At the border of rocks and grassy slopes, we cross the ridge and start traversing the slopes on the other side with a slight gain in altitude. The path is easy here. Then we enter the northern cirque of Yakum peak and, continuing to move east along the ridge of "Seraia", we reach the "Prostorny" pass. It is convenient to set up a base camp at this pass. This pass connects two snowy cirques, and therefore it is completely windless here; from here, the most difficult sections of the ascent to the "Main Gendarme" are visible.